Australia – the great doing good

Jeffrey Grosset and Stephanie Toole with their barrels

Henschke, Grosset and Mount Horrocks are some of the most famous names in South Australia, but it's as much what they're doing in the vineyards and community as their wines that makes them stand out from the crowd. (For more on Tam's trip to Australia, see Australia from left field, Playing it cool in Victoria, Bracing Tasmania and Finding clarity in cloudiness.)

There is, whether you like it or not, a kind of unofficial, unspoken aristocracy in the Australian wine world. As with all aristocracies, it's founded on a recipe of history and inheritance, luck, wealth and...