Bordeaux's puny, overpriced 2007s

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Every year a group of wine traders and commentators, very similar to the Southwold tasters, get together to taste the most important wines of a mature Bordeaux vintage blind in suitable flights. We yell out our scores out of 20 and then publish the overall average. As long-standing Purple Pagers know, these tasters are notoriously mean with their scores. In fact I notice in general that the traders are much meaner than the wine writers, which makes me wonder how they manage to sell these wines.

We usually examine the vintage that is 10 years old, but since this year...