Can white burgundy last the course?

Graham Nutter and Arnaud Mayade at Ch St-Jacques d'Albas

Was it dicing with death to taste a dozen mature white burgundies back to 1995? Was the tasting a joke?

It’s a brave or generous man who invites his friends round to a tasting of mature white burgundies, mainly 1996 and 1995, the first two vintages widely to exhibit signs of premature oxidation, also known as premox. Graham Nutter of Ch St-Jacques d’Albas, seen above with his estate manager Arnaud Mayade in the foreground, is that man.

As well as producing some very good wine, he has a fine cellar, brought from London when he moved to the Minervois...