Change is afoot in the Romagna hills

Vineyards near Predappio, Romagna

Sangiovese, apparently attached by an umbilical cord to Tuscany, has an equally fascinating and long history in Romagna, where it has been cultivated for at least 400 years. After years of neglect, Romagna is finally returning to its glorious past. To accompany this article, Walter's tasting notes on some superior Romagna Sangiovese are also published today.

One of the most radical changes I have witnessed in the last couple of years in Italy is the qualitative turnaround of Romagna Sangiovese – and not just in terms of nomenclature. Once called Sangiovese di Romagna on labels, this huge denomination changed its...