Chinese ingenuity 4 – appellations

This week we continue our series showcasing some of lawyer Nick Bartman's finds during a five-week tour of China. The market is obviously very unevolved, as witness the labels below, which would cause a heart attack in the Paris offices of the INAO, the appellations policing body.

Most consumers with any history of being exposed to wine would be likely to know that Bordeaux does not produce port (left). But look how widely Lafite-like engravings are used – even on burgundy-shaped bottles (right). I love the name of this wine, Royal Lateet, but am rather mystified by the 'Lee St'...

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