Don't forget Austria!

Austrian bottle tops

A reminder of this source of great whites – and, now, reds. More on Saturday.

Wine regions get their moment in the sun, as I hinted in the Oxford Companion to Wine entry on fashion. Though since that article was written, in 2014, many a region has come and gone, if not from wine lists then from the massive coverage they enjoyed at one point. Jura, Canary Islands, Gredos spring readily to mind but I’m sure you can think of others.

(Thinking of Nick’s ‘work’ reviewing restaurants, I see the same phenomenon in that world. A certain restaurant is...