Lambrusco – not fizzling out


See Tam's 36 tasting notes and her explanation of them.

From a region respected for its glorious voices (cue Pavarotti), its fast cars (cue Lamborghini, Maserati and Ferrari) and its food (cue Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Modena and balsamic vinegar) comes a wine that has long suffered the ignominy of sneers from not only the palates of the finest critics, but even the most humble supermarket shopper. ‘Lambrusco?’ I’m asked with surprise, ‘I drank that sickly stuff by the gallon when I was a poverty-stricken student! Is it still around?’

It’s a deeply entrenched view that is proving difficult to...