I have long thought that vineyards and cellars are extremely vulnerable to criminal intent. Anyone with a grudge against an ex-employer or business rival, or simply an extortionist, could without any great effort or cost wreak the most terrible havoc, or threaten to. And the risk is of course greatest on those properties that produce the most expensive wine.
Charlie Matthews of Bordeaux Uncorked sent this photograph of the hallowed vineyard at Ch Pétrus in Pomerol (where, he tells me, the 2009 was looking stupendous out of barrel last week – as well it might in view of its being...
