Pontet-Canet reassessed

Pontet-Canet lunch

Was Alfred Tesseron's embrace of biodnamics justified? James Lawther MW finds out.

In 2005 Alfred Tesseron, owner of Ch Pontet-Canet, having succeeded his father Guy in 1994, made the decision to turn the 81-ha (200-acre) vineyard over to biodynamic cultivation. It was a bold move at the time, especially for a classed growth, but made after a period of some reflection with pesticides already abandoned in 2001 and weedkiller in 2003 and a conclusive biodynamic trial on 14 ha in 2004. In the driving seat was the committed technical director Jean-Michel Comme.

Official certification was a goal from the...