Raj Parr's chilly, rustic new chapter

Raj Parr at Phelan Farms

Regenerative farming is introduced to Phelan Farms by one of the world's most famous sommeliers, seeking a new life.

The first time Raj Parr and I met to visit the site of his new project, Phelan Farms, last month rain stopped us. Just past the entrance to the property, a modest ravine had filled with a river of water 15 feet deep and wide, rushing out of the mountains. We had to wait not only for rains to stop but for several days of dry weather that we hoped would drain the impromptu canal. Instead we drove to Lompoc to...