Rosé, not just for summer

Tam's roses

Find a rosé to drink this summer … or winter

While the cliché that rosé is a summer wine routinely irritates me, I have to submit that the machina colossus of marketing and general perception that this is the purpose and end-point of rosé means that it is still, in the minds of most, a beverage of frivolous disregard. It doesn't help that so many producers of pink wine subscribe to this poolside-party mentality and produce the (barely) vinous equivalent of pink plastic complete with ridiculous packaging and props.

But the pink-wine category has its superheroes as well as its...