Southern France, the whites

Cabardes CIVL Céline et Gilles Deschamps

Southern France whites prove the case for traditional rather than international grape varieties. The first in a series of four articles devoted to this great source of value. See also Southern France, pink, sparkling and sweet and reds from producers A to F and G to Z.

We have a bad habit of lumping Roussillon in with the Languedoc, tagging it on the end as if it were a punctuation mark rather than a region, all the while putting Provence on a separate and rather elevated pedestal as if lavender, Cannes and Cézanne are underwriters for good wine. This...