A St-Émilion marathon in London

Jean-Philippe Delmas

The top St-Émilions from 2011 to 2018 tasted blind – 48 in all. Above, Jean-Philippe Delmas, responsible for the wines of the Haut-Brion stable, takes part in this landmark event at Oswald's.

Just before Britain’s four-day Platinum Jubilee celebrations, along with 26 other wine professionals, I spent 14 hours incarcerated in Oswald’s wine-themed members’ club, courtesy of the team at Haut-Brion. You can read more about this extraordinary event a week on Saturday.

Rather to our surprise, the day turned out to be devoted to blind tastings of eight vintages, 2011 to 2018, of St-Émilion’s top wines together with the...