Taking responsibility for artistry in the vineyard

Perspective shot of Promontory vine master Jesus Villa

Most California vineyard workers belong to a peripatetic crew. Samantha Cole-Johnson describes a radical alternative being implemented in Harlan properties. We will also be publishing a Spanish-language version so that the subjects of this article can read it. Above, Promontory Vine Master Jesus Villa tending his block of vines.

Bill Harlan is known for playing a long game. His 200-year plan is longer than the recorded history of the Napa Valley wine industry. While it may seem preposterous to plan that far out, it needs to be understood that the plan is not 200 years’ worth of winemaking projections. It...