The business end of Bordeaux


A down-to-earth taster before our big Bordeaux compilation of tasting notes to be published tomorrow.

The real division in Bordeaux isn’t between the left and right banks, it’s between the haves and have-nots. If the most reputable wine regions are equivalent to A1 prime real estate, then the hinterland appellations are tumbledown shanty towns.

Visiting grand Médoc properties is like stepping into a glossy magazine. Palatial buildings are staffed by beautiful youths wearing exquisite tailoring and immaculate manicures. The rugs upon which you walk are thick pile, as ancient and well preserved as the presiding Duchesse.

Talk is of world...