25th anniversary events | The Jancis Robinson Story

Why does wine have to be in a bottle?

Thursday 23 May 2013 • 2 min read
Image

Longstanding visitors to this site will know of my campaign against unnecessarily heavy bottles. I'm pleased that there is now much more awareness of the environmental cost of producing and transporting ridiculous bodybuilder bottles.

Glass, being neutral in flavour, has served us well as a container for wine designed for long ageing. But more and more I wonder why we need a material as heavy, fragile and resources-hungry as glass for everyday wine, wine that is consumed within months of being bottled. Mass market retailers in the UK are seeing increasing demand for wine in pouches. See this article in The Grocer for how well Asda has been doing with 1.5 litre pouches with a tap. M&S are selling so much wine in pouches that Paul Sapin in Beaujolais have installed a pouch filling line especially for them. They report that now that nitrogen sparging is routine, the quality of wine packaged in pouches is much-improved.

Paul Sapin also fill M&S's plastic PET bottles which are slowly infiltrating shelves – and look pretty smart nowadays. They use only a tenth as much energy as glass bottles, although there are complex issues associated with recycling all the various different containers in which wine is packaged today, including the Tetra Paks [Luis' ex employer – JR] illustrated above.  

Michael Schmelzer of Monte Bernardi in Chianti Classico, who provided such a useful vintage report on 2011/12 recently, provides some facts and figures:

Last year we embarked on a new journey: we created an organic white and red wine in Tetra Pak for the US market. As a small producer, we needed more financial security to buffer against year-to-year fluctuations (low-production years like 2010 cost the same to produce as 'normal' years).

We could have increased the production of our existing range, but this would have required a compromise in our original quality goals, which we were unwilling to make. Instead we decided to enter the emerging market of alternative packaging, which we believe is becoming an important segment for wine.

In the US, over 90% of wine is consumed within 24 hours of purchase. Why do we need such a weighty package as a bottle, which requires more fuel to transport, for a product that is consumed faster than most families consume a litre of milk?

Compared with wine in glass, a litre of delicious organic wine in Tetra Pak costs 75% less in packaging, and 50% less to transport. These savings allow us to offer a wine that retails at 35% less, while giving our customers 33% more wine (a litre v 750 ml).

Will wine consumers allow the wine industry to follow the same path the auto industry does with fuel consumption – choosing a lighter bottle, which reduces package weights only by a nominal amount?

The current lightest glass bottle weighs only 10% lighter than a standard glass bottle*, a saving of 40 grams, which equals the total weight of a one-litre Tetra Pak!

We researched packaging alternatives for nearly two years prior to putting our first wine in Tetra Pak; and it has been almost a year since the wines hit the shelves – the response has been outstanding.

Jamie Wolff of Chambers Street Wines in New York said: 'In the past we've sold one other tetrapak wine but when we tasted the Fuoristrada wines we knew immediately that we'd finally found a tetrapak of the same high quality as the best bottled wines we sell. As we've introduced the wines to our customers we get the same surprised reaction: no one's ever tasted such good wine from tetrapak. The fact that the tetrapaks have ecological advantages has helped to make Fuori Strada one of our best-selling wines, but their success here really results from the wines being great values, and just plain delicious.'

We are proud to put our name on our Fuori Strada Tetra Pak wines. We only wish our European friends were ready too!

* a standard glass bottle weighs 410 g, a Tetra Pak 40 g; Tetra Pak is 80% paper

See also this article on wineeconomist.com

Choose your plan
JancisRobinson.com 25th anniversaty logo

Go for gold with your wine knowledge.

The world just came together in Italy – and there’s never been a better time to explore its wines and beyond.

For a limited time, get 20% off all annual memberships by entering promo code GOLD2026 at checkout. Offer ends 12 March. Valid for new members only.

Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 290,073 wine reviews & 15,928 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors
  • Access 290,073 wine reviews & 15,928 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 290,073 wine reviews & 15,928 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
  • Access 290,073 wine reviews & 15,928 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

Ch Ormes de Pez
Free for all An overview of the 2016s tasted at 10 years old. See tasting articles on right-bank reds and sweet whites and...
Ferran and JR at Barcelona Wine Week
Free for all Ferran and Jancis attempt to sum up the excitement of Spanish wine today in six glasses. A much shorter version...
Institute of Masters of Wine logo
Free for all Congratulations to the latest crop of MWs, announced today by the Institute of Masters of Wine. The Institute of Masters...
Joseph Berkmann
Free for all 17 February 2026 Older readers will know the name Joseph Berkmann well. As outlined in the profile below, republished today...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Samantha harvesting protea’s on Ginny Povall’s farm
Wines of the week Two wines to conjure up spring. Flower Girl Albariño 2025 from €20.95, $25.65, £23.95 and Big Flower Cabernet Franc 2024...
left-bank 2016 firsts bottle line-up
Tasting articles Impressions from the most recent Ten Years On tastings held by Bordeaux Index and Farr Vintners. See this report on...
Le Pin Lafleur and Petrus 2016 bottles
Tasting articles The first of three articles about this lauded vintage. See this guide to our comprehensive coverage of Bordeaux 2016. This...
Sam smelling a glass of wine.jpg
Mission Blind Tasting The power of scent, and how to harness it to figure out what’s in your glass. In last week’s MBT...
Corbieres - vineyard island
Don't quote me Chris Howard contemplates the precarious balance of water, weather and vines in France’s Languedoc. Late summer sun beats down on...
bunch of California Riesling
Tasting articles Convinced of Riesling’s inherent greatness, these California winemakers strive onwards despite the Sisyphean task of selling the wines. Above, a...
Close up of two rows of wine glasses stretching into the distance
Tasting articles From a forest of wine glasses, a comprehensive exploration of Margaret River’s best bottles and their international competitors. Including a...
Jasper Morris MW at The Stokehouse
Nick on restaurants How restaurateurs and wine people work together over a meal. The phrase ‘wine dinner’ must strike anyone reading a wine...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.