Addio, Bruno Giacosa


Bruno Giacosa, one of Italy’s most admired winemakers, died a week last Sunday at the age of 88. Famous for being a man of few words as well as for his legendary red label Riserva Barbarescos and Barolos produced only in what Giacosa judged, often against the grain, an outstanding vintage, he joined his father’s commerciante business, which sold bulk wine made from bought-in grapes, at the age of 15.

Against the wishes of his father, who feared competition and conflict of interest, Giacosa struck out on his own when he founded Casa Vinicola Bruno Giacosa, releasing its first bottle...