An Assyrtiko as rare as a mermaid


Last week I was given probably the rarest wine I will ever have the chance to taste. It was only five years old but there are only three – correction, two – bottles in existence.

Santorini producers Gaia decided they would try ageing their fine Thalassitis Assyrtiko under the deep blue Aegean. They were inspired by a tasting in 2000 when various winemakers on this magical volcanic island got together to taste a Santorini Assyrtiko bought at a New York auction thought to be an 1847. Yiannis Paraskevopoulos of Gaia was amazed by how youthful the wine seemed (let’s hope...