A new generation of born-and-bred Armenians – mostly women – is creating the most exciting chapter in Armenian wine yet.
It was two o’clock in the morning. The airport was disconcertingly busy for what was the middle of the night in a small city of a very small country landlocked in the middle of the inscrutable Caucasus region. I walked through customs, scanning signs in curlicue letters that meant nothing to my Latinated brain, as foreign conversations bubbled up around me and I smelled the warmth of the air. I found unsmiling Arthur, there to pick me up. The roads...