Australian 'Albarino' isn't


23 Apr – See update from Australia's leading producer of this variety below.

The CSIRO, Australia's plant research institute, has just proved what many had suspected: that the vines they had previously sold as the Galician white wine variety Albarino is not proper Spanish Albarino at all. (I am dispensing with the tilde above the N here since Australians are no great slaves to the noble art of accenting.)

Comparison of the DNA profiles of this variety with proper Albarino sourced in Spain and the variety known as Savagnin in the Jura (where it is the most charactistic variety, as pictured here by...