Ferran to dinner – what we drank


My husband Nick Lander is, fortunately for me, a seriously good home cook – who seems to be absolutely fearless. Fat Duck Heston to dinner? Piece of cake.

Last night, if you please, he cooked for Ferran Adrià, Sr El Bulli. My brother had never heard of this Catalan institution so I had perhaps better spell out that Adrià has changed restaurants and cooking completely and has powered Spain to the top of the gastronomic tree, leaving France looking distinctly effete, with his extraordinarily agile and open mind, restless experimentation and apparently limitless energy.

He is in London early this...