Furmint – the red-food white wine

Glass of Furmint, bowl of Hungarian goulash

There's a reason the Hungarians celebrate Furmint February: it may be the ultimate winter white. See the bowl of beefy, paprika-rich goulash and glass of dry Tokaji above.

‘I don’t know that there is one other white wine out there that is so exciting and flexible with food’, I wrote five years ago (almost to the day, coincidentally). I was writing about Furmint. On that occasion, I’d discovered how good a 15-year-old off-dry Furmint can be with hot-smoked chicken.

Since then I’ve had plenty of time to play with Furmint and food, including an unexpected and clever six-course lunch...