Mature Ch Margaux assessed and more

A very indulgent lunch in Paris. 

Gosh, isn’t the building of Ch Margaux beautiful? Is the wine made there as stunning? On the basis of the tastings organised by my FT predecessor Edmund Penning-Rowsell of all the Bordeaux first growths at 10 years old, the answer would have to be no. Our tasting group of Penning-Rowsells, Broadbents, Nick and me could not have admired more the new broom swept so effectively through vineyards and cellars of Ch Margaux by the Mentzelopoulos family who took over the property in 1977. But when we compared the results at 10 years old with...

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