'Our wines were too ripe' – Eben Sadie

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South Africa's most admired young(ish) wine producer Eben Sadie was in London recently, as usual in reflective mood (followed, apparently, by party mode). Almost as soon as I sat down to taste some of his wines before a dinner he was hosting at the Guildhall Hawksmoor, he swung into a particularly frank and illuminating recent history of South African winemaking.

'We now have this big, shared notion: everyone is going for freshness and acidity. Quite a contrast from the early 2000s when everyone was trying so hard to get high scores on the 100-point scale. I was just young then...