Tim Hall of Scala Wine reports on a polarisation of the producers of grower champagne, and singles out his favourites of the week. See also Champagne Week 2019 – part 1 and Champagne – a thirsty insider's view.
On the evening of Monday 15 April, while I was queueing in Reims to buy bread, my phone buzzed and there was Paris’s Notre-Dame, burning. I showed it to the shop assistant over the counter and she put hands to cheeks, as the French often do when astonished; her tears welled up.
Champagne of course is another French icon,...