Chapoutier Sélections Parcellaires 2017 – triumph against adversity?

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Michel Chapoutier (pictured) has a rider for his tastings in London: a glass of Bollinger Grande Année. Conveniently, his UK importer Mentzendorff happens to ship this wine too, and he furnished himself with a generous glass of it while introducing the latest vintage of his Sélections Parcellaires at the top of the Tate Modern art gallery recently. 

These wines are the top cuvées from various Chapoutier estates across France and Australia. Most are from his homeland of the Rhône, but they also include several Rieslings from Alsace, some local blends from the Roussillon and a clutch of Shirazes from Victoria...