Cupano Brunello di Montalcino – a complete vertical

Andrea Polidori and Lionel Cousin

Walter enjoys a slow, reflective tasting and revises his view of Cupano's early, heavily oaked vintages.

Last June I was invited to taste every vintage of Brunello di Montalcino ever produced by Cupano, 19 in total. It is a jewel of an estate tucked away in Camigliano, in the south-west corner of Montalcino. The main road from Montalcino to the Tuscan coast ran through Camigliano until 1974, when the faster Superstrada 223, connecting Siena directly with Grosseto, was built. Camigliano soon lost its significance and most of its inhabitants and is still today one of the least discovered areas...