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Brian Croser, founder of Petaluma and senior figure in Australian wine, muses on last week's wine symposium in the nation's capital. We also published his own paper on Riesling.

The story begins with the rebirth of the ANU University House Wine Symposia. The seventh, held last Friday after a 17-year hiatus, was organised by Kiaran and Tim Kirk, sons of John, the founder of Clonakilla. In 1979 at the third symposium I had the privilege of giving a paper called 'Australian white wines – their history, current success, and future'. Helmut Becker, legendary professor of viticulture at Geisenheim in Germany...