Keller G-Max – a complete vertical of an icon

German wine, or to be precise Riesling, is on a high. Not high enough yet, in the eyes of some growers, who like to revel in memories of the early twentieth century when wines from the elite German estates cost more than the best of Bordeaux. Of course this comparison is slightly flawed, as even in those days Chx Margaux or Lafite produced well in excess of 100,000 bottles a year, whereas top growths from single sites in the Mosel or Rheingau were available only in four-figure numbers...