A couple of years ago I received a sample of Rubesco Vigna Monticchio, once the flagship wine of Umbria and its first ever single-vineyard red wine. It was conceived by Giorgio Lungarotti in the early 1960s, at a time that very little bottled or high-quality wines came from this region. Soon Vigna Monticchio became one of Italy’s most revered wines and achieved cult status.
That is no exaggeration, evidenced by the fact that in 1968 the DOC Torgiano...