A Moulin-à-Vent triptych


Serious beaujolais is one of the best-value wines around. But how do the recent vintages that are currently drinking so well compare? Here's how one of the most ambitious producers sees them.

Triptych was the word chosen by owner Édouard Parinet to describe three vintages of his Ch du Moulin-à-Vent bottling, the emblematic cuvée of the estate, which also makes several single-vineyard wines. They form a perfect trinity: two extreme vintages in 2015 and 2017 framing 2016, 'the referee in the middle', as Parinet calls it. My notes on these wines are at the end of this article.

We tasted...