A new chapter for Sekt?

Christmann & Kaufmann trio by Lucie Greiner

Germany is now not just a confident producer of red wines, but is starting to make really fine sparkling wine too – with terroir, commitment and deep expertise at last playing a part. Above, the Christmanns with Kauffmann on the right in their precious vineyards, pictured by Lucie Greiner.

Christmann & Kauffmann’s long-anticipated Sekt, some of whose limited-release subscriptions sold out in under 10 minutes, is the brainchild of an exceptionally talented trifecta: Sophie and Steffen Christmann of their family’s Pfalz estate and Alsace-born Mathieu Kauffmann, Bollinger’s former chef de cave.

Kauffmann is often credited with being the catalyst to...