Rhône – our collected works

Image

See Our collected works – a guide.

This collection of tasting notes on Rhône wines currently in circulation illustrates sharply how different are the wines from the two halves of the Rhône Valley. The less successful wines from the northern and southern Rhône tend respectively to be either too thin or too evolved – although Brettanomyces can affect any Rhône wine, it would seem.

Wines are listed in declining score order, which should make it relatively easy to pick out the bargains.

WHITE

Guigal 2010 St-Joseph

95% Marsanne, 5% Roussanne. Caramel, ginger, stone fruit, cream – lots of authentic flavour here. Long peachy finish. Something almost autolytic too? (RH) 13%
Drink
2013
2015
£22 Laithwaites
16.5

Clos St-Michel 2012 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Juicy, ripe, nutty. Very slack acidity – it could really use a bit more zing, I think. Nonetheless, this is pleasant and typically Rhôney in style. (RH) 13.5%
Drink
2013
2015
16

Alain Graillot 2011 Crozes-Hermitage

Lovely stone fruit and some hay character, quite light-bodied and low in acid, but plenty of interesting flavour. (RH)

Drink
2013
2014
£19.75 Yapp Brothers
16.5

Joseph Castan 2012 Côtes du Rhône

Fresh, nutty, a little bit of applemint or menthol – possibly even elastoplast – quite a daring, unusual style. Pleasantly different. (RH) 14%
Drink
2013
2015
£11 Theatre of Wine
15.5

Christelle Betton 2009 Hermitage

Minty, peachy, with quite a bit of exotic spicing – really quite unconventional flavours. Very low acid, very broad palate. (RH) 14%
Drink
2013
2015
£41 Theatre of Wine
16.5

RED

René Rostaing, Ampodium 2010 Côte Rôtie

Rich, fragrant and quite brett-heavy on the nose. Pure black pepper on the palate. Medicinal notes. Full on power. (RH) 13.5%
Drink
2013
2020
£45 Laithwaites
17 +

Clos des Papes 2008 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Fragrant, lifted character with a little volatility – reminds me of Amarone in some ways – which comes to dominate the palate, actually, and I think it would get tiring after a glass. (RH) 14.5%
Drink
2013
2018
£53 Laithwaites
16.5

Dom des Sénéchaux 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

55% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 20% Mourvèdre. Honest, meaty Grenache character. Minty, succulent, rich but not overbearing. Spicy finish, lots of dried herb complexity. Long, peppery finish. Pushes all the right buttons. (RH) 14.5%
Drink
2013
2020
£26 Laithwaites
17

Cave de Rasteau, Ico(o)n 2010 Rasteau

Not sure I approve of this name – nor the price at €42 from the cellar door! Deep and rich and sweet but not over the top.  Lots of chew – like a distillation of most decent Rasteaus but a bit tight.  Very flattering though. (JR) 15%
Drink
2014
2019
16.5

Cave de Rasteau, Ortas Prestige 2011 Rasteau

Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre. Sweet and simple on the nose. There's a little bit of gamey mercaptan on the nose. Pretty chewy. Shows how much more complex are the Boutinot 2010 Cairanne and Séguret, I'm afraid. Just a bit scrawny. A vintage thing? (JR) 14.5%
Drink
2013
2016
€7.70 ex cellar
15

Boutinot, La Côte Sauvage 2010 Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Cairanne

Unnecessarily heavy bottle (like its Séguret stablemate). A blend of Grenache, Syrah, old (of course!) Carignan and Mourvèdre. Aged in a mix of barriques and demi-muids with only a fifth in new oak. Dark, brooding crimson. Lifted nose, not too sweet. Quite a high-toned blend. Intriguing. Quite juicy at first and then a little drying on the finish. Distinctly 'stony'. Not yet ready. A little more ethereal than the Séguret. Definitely not playing the alcohol card! Quite refined. Definitely GV (JR) 14.5%
Drink
2015
2020
£14-15 Wide range of UK independent retailers
16.5 +

Boutinot, Les Coteaux Schisteux 2010 Côtes du Rhône-Villages, Séguret

Mainly Grenache with some Syrah, all at least 50 years old. Two years in used barriques with a quarter in new demi-muids. Hand picked, wild yeasts etc. Refined liquorice if such a thing exists. No heat on the finish. This is a wine that should continue to evolve and take on nuance for some time. Lots of juice and no excess sweetness or alcohol. It definitely has the corset of Syrah. Needs a bit of time. Very ambitious. I wouldn't say you would taste it and immediately think of schist. (JR) 14.5%
Drink
2015
2020
£12.50-14 Wide range of UK independent retailers
16 +

Boutinot, Arc du Rhône 2011 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault. Arc du Rhône is named after the classified group of villages which together line up to form a geographical arc across the valley of the southern Rhône and is known locally as the ‘arc of gold’. At the southern tip of this arc stands the hill-top plateau of vineyards belonging to the most famous cru of the region: Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Winemaker Eric Monnin. TA 3.49 g/l, pH 3.46, RS 1.7 g/l.
Soft ruby. Sweet and ripe with a hint of citrus on the nose. Tannins already quite soft, some complexity from a savoury edge. Dryish finish. Overpriced and lacking generosity. (JH) 13.5%
Drink
2013
2017
£19.99 Waitrose
15.5

Michel et Stéphane Ogier 2010 Côte Rôtie

Slinky, smooth, aromatic and open-knit. Supple tannins, moderate length. Not as impressive as you’d hope from the appellation? (RH) 13%
Drink
2013
2019
£48 Swig
16.5

Guy Farge, Passion de Terrasses 2010 St-Joseph

Quite interesting, very aromatic in a rustic way – earthy, manure and perhaps a little bit of VA. Certainly very traditional! Strong, dense black fruit but it is just a bit too extreme for me. (RH) 12.5%
Drink
2013
2018
£20.70 The Sampler
16

M Chapoutier, Les Micas 2009 Côte Rôtie

Lots of Viognier perfume – almost reminds me of those chillable Italian reds – then a solid dose of black fruit and pepper. Opulence vinified. Not much meatiness – but it is rather young. (RH) 13%
Drink
2013
2019
£31.49 Tesco
16.5 +

J L Chave Sélection, Farconnet 2006 Hermitage

Dark ruby. Sumptuous nose with some evolution. Really rather majestic with richness and yet with a dry finish. This would be a excellent introduction to Hermitage even if it is a bit more evolved and much faster maturing than most. (JR)
Drink
2013
2020
£34.90 Justerini & Brooks
17.5

Marc Sorrel 2007 Hermitage

Layered dark ruby. Smudgy and interesting but a bit sweet and occluded in impact. Difficult to see the absolute purity of Hermitage in this wine. (JR)
Drink
2015
2024
£41.40 Justerini & Brooks
16

J L Chave Sélection, Offerus 2009 St-Joseph

Deep dark crimson. Fine and smooth and very appealing and correct without recourse to sweetness or oak. Just what St-Joseph should be – but is there the merest hint of reduction here? Juicy and appealing. GV (JR)
Drink
2012
2017
£18.40 Justerini & Brooks
16.5

Ch des Tours 2009 Côtes du Rhône

Sweet and polished and pretty nectar-like. A bargain hint of Rayas? Very pure, sweet, just-not-jammy Grenache. Lots of fun. And no animal flavours at all. Very sweet; very transparent. GV (JR)
Drink
2012
2016
£19.95 Lea & Sandeman
16.5

Dom du Monteillet 2010 St-Joseph

Scented, liquorish and vital. Just a hint of black pepper but lots of fruit and energy and northern Rhône character. Some development. Complex and pretty. (JR)
Drink
2010
2015
£21.50 Lea & Sandeman
16.5

André Perret 2010 St-Joseph

Evolved ruby. Sweet with a hint of Band-Aid – not a good sign. Not much fruit vitality on the palate. (JR)
Drink
2011
2013
£19 RRP
14.5

Jean-Luc Colombo 2008 Crozes-Hermitage

Dark crimson. Intense ripe but dry Syrah. Quite flashy and dramatic. Dry finish. Lacking a bit of fruit. (JR)
Drink
2014
2019
£13.99 Waitrose
15

Clos St-Michel 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Mid ruby with some brown. Very evolved nose indeed – not unpleasant! Lovely salty north Rhône character. Appetising and transparent. Medium weight. Appetising. (JR)
Drink
2011
2015
£17.99 Waitrose
16

La Bouïssière 2008 Gigondas

Transparent blackish ruby. Light, rather animal nose. Very evolved tannins. Not very fresh but true to type! If you want full ripeness under a Provençal sun, this is your wine. (JR)
Drink
2010
2016
£22 RRP
16

La Bouïssière 2010 Gigondas

Blackish ruby. Scented and rather clarety. Lively – some Syrah here? A very attractive whole that is dry rather than sweet. Appetising. Verging on severe but not. (JR)
Drink
2012
2020
£21.50 Lea & Sandeman
16.5

Giraud, Les Grenaches de Sixte 2011 Côtes du Rhône

Mid ruby. Light sweet treacly nose with very attractive transparency and development. Sufficient acidity to stop it being jammy. Lots of sweet strawberry pleasure. Fresh finish. Impressive persistence. (JR)
Drink
2010
2015
£13.50 Tanners
17

Dom Lafond Roc-Épine 2010 Lirac

Livid crimson. Attractively mellow nose. Round and spicy but not aggressively hot. Tough. Quite well mannered and delivers lots of pleasure. (JR)
Drink
2012
2017
£12 RRP
16

Santa Duc 2009 Gigondas

Very dark crimson. On the way to oxidation. Too much for me! Though there are some herby, and jammy, notes. Very dry finish. (JR)
Drink
2010
2014
£20.45 Berry Bros & Rudd
15