Late summer sun beats down on the red valley, but we’re in the shade of the pergola at Château Ollieux Romanis. The proprietor, Pierre Bories, walks me through the experimental vineyard planted in 2024. Two meters high and three across, the young vines have climbed and coiled around the wires overhead, beginning to weave a green tunnel. In time, the canopy will create a microclimate, an Umwelt. Three weeks earlier, catastrophic fires had swept through the Corbières, just 15 minutes down the valley.
The Pergola...
