Strong, sweet but not port or madeira


While Richard focused on vintage ports at London’s recent Big Fortified Tasting (BFT), I concentrated on colheita ports and madeiras, which I will be reporting on soon, but I also looked at the fortified wines that were on show in rather smaller numbers, from Portugal, Australia and France. 

Portugal’s most widely known and appreciated fortified wines are port and madeira but Moscatel de Setúbal (pronounced a bit like stoobal) is an underappreciated asset, as I suggested a year ago in this wine of the week. It’s much less popular and made in far smaller volumes than in the...