Julie Benson writes I’m from the UK but now live in Ireland. I am a Certified Sherry Wine Specialist, hold WSET Level 3 and run a wine tasting group from my home. I love to travel and am always on the lookout for opportunities to explore different wine regions and taste indigenous grape varieties.
Just one more glass
It’s a wet weekend in Ireland – nothing new – and we have no plans, so we agree to settle down and watch an episode (or two) of detective drama Columbo. We decide to open a bottle of wine too, and I know I have the ideal weapon – a 2021 Kanonkop Estate Wine.
Grape: Pinotage – a cross between the French grapes Pinot Noir and Cinsault, known locally as Hermitage. Our lead detective, Lieutenant Columbo, is also of mixed heritage, although he is Italian American.
Colour: Deep ruby with a slight garnet tinge, rather reminiscent of the pooling blood from the murder which has just taken place on screen. The 14.5% alcohol means the viscosity doesn’t look too dissimilar either.
Aromas: The wine has pronounced aromas of ripe plums, black cherry, and blackberry, accompanied by vanilla and tobacco smoke, similar to those of Lieutenant Columbo, who has, this minute, walked in to the opulent lounge of an ageing film star’s house to investigate the murder. He still has a hint of Mrs Columbo’s perfume on him, although the cigar he has just lit is blending with the lingering floral fruitiness. I’m pleased to say there’s no hint of wet dog; Columbo has left his basset hound (called Dog) in the car!
Flavours: The mouthfeel is smooth and luxurious, rather like the expensive wallpaper and plush carpet in the room where Lieutenant Columbo finds himself. The juicy plums and mixed cherries that immediately tantalise the palate do, however, reflect more how Columbo is viewed by the suspects; a little simple and easy to fool, but he hasn’t revealed his hand quite yet, just as the wine takes its time in revealing the expressive chocolate and peppery spice notes.
Acidity: The fresh acidity is well balanced, much as Columbo’s occasional acerbic comments are well placed so as not to offend.
Tannins: The tannins are ripe and well integrated, to be almost imperceptible. Likewise, as his investigation continues, the suspects come to accept Columbo’s presence, sometimes not even realising that he’s in the house and still searching for answers.
Body: The full-bodied nature of the wine shows layers of complexity, obtained from both fermentation in clay and oak ageing, echoing the revelations of the various complex means, motives and opportunities the suspects have.
Ageing: As the bottle is left open, oxygen helps the flavours round out and deepen, in much the same way as Columbo digs deeper and, with time, comes to learn more about his suspects and how the murder may have been committed. Had we not opened it, the bottle could have remained cellared for at least another 5 years, just as the series itself has a timeless appeal.
Finish: And finally, just when you thought he’d finished questioning and left the room, Columbo pops his head back in, uttering his trademark “Just one more thing...”, the subsequent question telling the murderer that it’s all over and he’s been found out. The wine’s long finish of subtle spice and black cherry has lingered beautifully but, as it fades, at least we know we can pour just one more glass.
Photo caption: ‘a Columbo DVD box set with a bottle and glass of Kanonkop Pinotage’. The photo is the author’s own.
Published unedited and in accordance with the rules of the competition published here.
