Bordeaux 2011 – case by case

That's case as in cas (instance) not case as in caisse (wooden box for wine). Right through the week of tastings in Bordeaux, I struggled to articulate generalisations about appellations, soil types, weather patterns, varieties or styles. In the end I realised that consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt's comment the day I arrived was most apt: vineyards had to be managed and wines made cas par cas, one by one. This...