Jurançon sweet and dry

The sweet wines for which the appellation is best known were very good. The dry wines were a revelation. This was my conclusion after a tasting of both styles of wine, hosted by three Jurançon producers – Gisèle Bordenave of Domaine Bordenave, Leny Samson of Domaine Nomboly Traydou and Laurent Saint-Martin of Le Bois Sacré – along with Manon Kerouedan, the appellation’s head of marketing, during my visit to South-West France last year.

Jurançon is a relatively small appellation for still white wines, extending...