Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story | Mission Blind Tasting

American wineries up, sales flat

• 2 min read
Image

Wines & Vines magazine, based in California, reports that the number of North American wineries grew by 361 in the last year, and by 1,961 since 2005 – impressive growth, indeed, for a continent without a long tradition of winemaking or indeed wine consumption.

According to the magazine, there were 7,011 wineries in the US, Canada and Mexico at the close of 2009, 6,589 of them in the US and 3,115 in California. The significant growth by percentage in US wineries since 2005 came from such emerging states as Iowa (from 34 wineries to 81), Kentucky (21 to 48), North Carolina (53 to 109) and Oklahoma (21 to 59). Twenty years ago, a belief that Oklahomans would produce commercial wine in such numbers would have been akin to believing that donkeys can fly.

In the same week as Wines & Vines' report, the San Francisco-based Wine Institute announced that 2009 wine shipments of California wines within the US showed a 'modest' 0.2% growth compared with 2008. The recession obviously played a huge part in this break-even sales year, when California has been accustomed to annual, giant-leap increases.

The most telling points in the Wine Institute report, however, are that the estimated retail value of California wines sold in 2009 decreased by 3% from 2008, as consumers struggling with their own finances traded down to lower-priced wines. Sales of wines from producers who rely heavily on restaurant placements dipped by 9%, so they had to find off-premise and direct-sale outlets to move bottles.

Yet sales of all wines in US food stores grew in volume by 2%, signaling that Americans have not cut back on wine consumption even at a time in which they have every economical reason to do so. Instead they are shopping for values. They've not reduced their wine consumption, but instead are buying less expensive wines, finding a way to keep a bottle on their dinner table on a daily basis.

Isn't this is a sign of an evolving wine-drinking nation?

As for sales outside the United States, in 2009 US wine exports, of which 90% come from California, which exports about 20% of all production, fell 9.5% in value to $911.8 million and 14.9% by volume to 417.9 million litres, or 46.4 million cases.

Nearly 42% of these exports were shipped to the European Union. Volume shipments to the EU fell by 21% to $380 million in 2009 with sales to the EU by value falling 22%, due in part to the continuing strategy of producers exporting bulk wine for bottling overseas to save the transportation costs of shipping bottles and other packaging. The next top markets were: Canada, $242 million; Japan, $79 million; Hong Kong, $47 million; and China, $36 million.

California's man in the UK John McLaren commented, '2009 was a tough year in an already highly competitive UK wine market, with pressure on prices, reductions in stock holdings, and cutbacks in the number of wine offerings occurring in all sectors. Duty increases exacerbated the situation. But despite all challenges, California, because of its adaptability and pragmatism, held up well and maintained the number two slot [after Australia by volume].'

Choose your plan
Member
$135
/year
Save over 15% annually
Ideal for wine enthusiasts
  • Access 295,065 wine reviews & 16,087 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
Inner Circle
$249
/year
 
Ideal for collectors
  • Access 295,065 wine reviews & 16,087 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
Professional
$299
/year
For individual wine professionals
  • Access 295,065 wine reviews & 16,087 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 25 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Business
$399
/year
For companies in the wine trade
  • Access 295,065 wine reviews & 16,087 articles
  • Access The Oxford Companion to Wine & The World Atlas of Wine
  • Early access to the latest wine reviews & articles, 48 hours in advance
  • Commercial use of up to 250 wine reviews & scores for marketing
Pay with
Visa logo Mastercard logo American Express logo Logo for more payment options
Join our newsletter

Get the latest from Jancis and her team of leading wine experts.

By subscribing you agree with our Privacy Policy and provide consent to receive updates from our company.

More Free for all

female urban hands each holding a glass of wine - Shutterstock
Free for all Pauline Vicard asks, can wine still justify its cultural relevance? The answer to this question, rather than economics, may become...
Thomas Walk Vineyard in Kinsale
Free for all Jancis is put in her place, by the hybrid grapes of the Emerald Isle. A shorter version of this article...
Ungrafted monastrell vines in Jumilla
Free for all 4 June 2026 In advance of the 2026 Old Vine Conference on 8 June, we’re republishing this overview of our...
Institute of Masters of Wine logo
Free for all As our Sam Cole-Johnson and 216 others prepare for next week’s MW exams, we look back at the very first...

More from JancisRobinson.com

Tertius Boshoff of Stellenrust shows off multiple Chenins in London
Tasting articles The many Cape Chenins and Chenin blends shown at a big South African tasting in London in May reviewed. Tertius...
The Pacific ocean view from Flowers Vineyards
Don't quote me Chris Howard asks, if there’s such a thing as volcanic wine, can there be oceanic wine? Above, seals on the...
Beaujolais vineyard harvest imminent
Tasting articles Bien Boire (‘drinking well’) en Beaujolais is more fun than Bordeaux’s primeurs and offers plenty of excellent wines, reports Natasha...
Alessandro Campatelli of Riecine
Tasting articles Pleasant surprises from a torrid year. Above, Alessandro Campatelli, director and oenologist (and now owner) at Riecine, made a 2022...
Japanese Wine by Nick Rowan - book cover
Book reviews Nick Rowan’s new book is an amazingly complete guide to the wine (and cheese!) of Japan, for amateurs and professionals...
Ballymaloe House May 2026
Nick on restaurants An international institution in the southern Irish countryside. In 2011 I travelled to Ballymaloe House, a 40-minute drive from Cork...
Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc-Viognier bottle and glass of wine outdoors, on table with books
Wines of the week A summer-ready, silky white wine that’s widely available from just $8.99, £20.90 . The sleeper hit of Napa winery Pine...
Split Rail vineyard
Tasting articles Part 4 of an exploration of California’s westernmost vineyards. Above, the Split Rail vineyard in Corralitos (credit: John Benedetti)...
Wine inspiration delivered directly to your inbox, weekly
Our weekly newsletter is free for all
By subscribing you're confirming that you agree with our Terms and Conditions.