Bordeaux 2020 four years on – left-bank reds

Bdx 2020 left-bank bottles

In her final report from the Southwold tasting, Julia reviews the wines of the left bank, where Cabernet Sauvignon is king. For background to the tasting, see Bordeaux 2020 revisited; see also Bordeaux 2020 four years on – whites and right-bank reds, and our guide to the 2020 vintage in Bordeaux.

The 116 wines are grouped by appellation as follows:

Within each group the wines are ordered alphabetically but you can reorder them by score if you wish.

Pessac-Léognan

Ch Bouscaut 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Includes some old-vine Malbec, apparently.
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Ripe, sweet and spicy. Firm, dark yet elegant. Embryonically balanced, persistent. (JH)

14.5%
Drink
2028
2034
16.5

Ch Carbonnieux 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Intense, fresh, peppery black fruit with a hint of leafiness and cedar. Juicy, fine-grained, layered tannins. A bit dry on the finish. (JH)

14.5%
Drink
2028
2034
15.5

Ch Les Carmes Haut-Brion 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Lifted, ripe and oaky dark fruit. Juicy and refined on the palate, with real elegance and freshness. Not a blockbuster but harmonious and compelling in its refinement. (JH)

Drink
2028
2040
17

Dom de Chevalier 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Smells ripe, sweet and seductive, lifted by a leafy cassis note. Firm, rich, finely dry texture, all juicy and fresh at the core. Bright and lively and yet big. All to play for. (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2037
17 ++

Ch Couhins-Lurton 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Charry and toasty oak over rich black fruit. Really intense and juicy fruited, pure dark fruit but perhaps a little bit oaky, giving a sweetness overall. (JH)

14.5%
Drink
2026
2032
16

Ch de Fieuzal 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Deep crimson with purplish rim. Darkly fragrant and gently leafy. Deep, firm and well-built with lovely fruit. (JH)

14%
Drink
2027
2035
16.5

Ch La Garde 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Leafy black fruit. Fresh, the tannins a little bit firm on the palate, as you might expect now. The freshness and the tannins seem to give a slightly bitter aftertaste. (JH)

14%
Drink
2027
2032
15.5

Ch Haut-Bailly 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Dark core. A touch oaky/charry and dark but with some red fruits hiding underneath. Very firm but finely built tannins. Firm, juicy and refined with lots of lovely dark fruit though the tannins are pretty dominant now, dark and chewy and needing time. (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2038
16.5 ++

Ch Haut-Bergey 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Very deep greyish crimson. Sweet cassis and blackberry on the nose but less ripe on the palate. Open and inviting aroma but leads to a slightly odd flavour on the palate, rather dry and flat on the finish. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2026
2033
14.5

Ch Haut-Brion 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Perfumed with sweet black fruits. Really fragrant. Sweet, almost sweet-sour on the palate. Thick, firm, chewy tannins but lots of freshness at the end. Deep, rich, just balanced. A big beast. (JH)

15%
Drink
2035
2050
17.5

Ch Latour-Martillac 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Very dark crimson. Pure, dark ripe black fruit with a nice stony quality. Dry, firm, but refined in both texture and flavour. (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2035
16.5

Ch La Louvière 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Deep to mid crimson. Dark cassis fruit is intense and pure on the palate. Nicely framed by the tannins, with a long, elegant finish. (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2037
16.5

Ch Malartic Lagravière 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Leafy and open-hearted with fresh black fruit. Firm, chewy, fresh but slightly sinewy on the finish though the harmony is there. Just very slightly dry on the finish even though there is a lot of fruit at the core. (JH)

14%
Drink
2027
2038
16.5

Ch La Mission Haut-Brion 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Inky crimson. Pure black fruit with a top note of cedary pencil. Pure, dark and elegant. On the palate, this is really refined, flowing across the palate even with so much tannin density. Elegant and embryonic with a lovely dark minerally character. (JH)

14.5%
Drink
2035
2050
18 ++

Ch Olivier 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Rich and open with red and black fruits. Pretty tough tannins grip your mouth and smother the fruit. Enough freshness but a bit severe at the moment. (JH)

14.5%
Drink
2028
2035
16 +

Ch Pape Clément 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Smells ripe, dark and sweet-fruited. Severely structured on the palate with not quite enough flesh in the middle. A big wine and really chewy. Very tannic and a bit tough. (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2038
16

Ch Smith Haut Lafitte 2020 Pessac-Léognan

Tasted blind. Very dark crimson. Intense, pure black fruit, like small wild berries, and just slightly charry-dark at that moment. Dense, chewy and balanced for the long term. Deep, harmonious and embryonic. (JH)

14.5%
Drink
2030
2045
17 ++

Margaux

Ch Brane-Cantenac 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Deepest crimson. Intensely aromatic with sweet, ripe fresh black fruits. Such pure cassis. Firmly encased in its compact and polished tannins. Concentrated and plush but somehow still elegant. Spicy, fresh finish. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2042
17.5

Ch Cantenac Brown 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Pure, lightly spicy black fruit. Extremely fine tannins, particularly in a vintage like this. Harmonious, fresh, juicy finish. Beautiful now and for the future. Classic Margaux. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2042
17

Ch Dauzac 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Lifted dark-red fruit. Seductive and open. Firm, deep, pure-fruited, really smooth and nicely balanced by freshness. Powerful and harmonious with great fruit. Long, too. Powerful style of Margaux? (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2040
17

Ch Giscours 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. Dark and savoury, slightly charry, on the nose. Masses of pure black fruit. Sweeter in the mouth, a bit sweet-sour, flowingly gentle on the palate and scented. Gentle and fragrant at the same time. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2028
2040
16.5

Ch d'Issan 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Ripe, sweet damson and blackcurrant fruit with a nice hint of lead pencil. Juicy but firmly textured. Smooth tannins but it lacks a bit of energy on the finish. (JH)

13%
Drink
2028
2038
16.5

Ch Kirwan 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Deepest crimson. Fragrant with very slightly leafy black fruit. Dark and ripe yet fresh. Firm, chewy, well built and harmonious. Juicy finish. Nice freshness. (JH)

14%
Drink
2030
2042
17

Ch Labégorce 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Fragrant, lightly leafy. Leafy/lead pencils on the palate, slightly chalky tannins, a bit stone-dusty. Light, dry, fine-boned. Scented on the finish. (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2038
16.5

Ch Lascombes 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Very dark. Rich in black fruit. Really fragrant. Seductive yet serious. Dark, savoury, and yet perfumed too. Quite reticent on the palate, with beautifully smooth tannins. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2040
17

Ch Malescot St-Exupéry 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Black-fruited, intense, ripe cassis. Tighter and more elegant on the palate, tannins dry and fine, elegant rather than powerful. (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2036
16.5

Ch Margaux, Pavillon Rouge 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Dark-fruited, open and floral plus a slight jamminess. Pretty oaky, especially on the finish. A bit dense and unyielding on the mid palate, the fruit currently dominated by the structure. Firm, dry finish. (JH)

14%
Drink
2027
2040
17

Ch Margaux 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Darkest crimson. Sweetly fragrant with pure black fruits and a hint of violets. Great power in the tannins but they are deeply layered not massive. Chewy but not thick. Monumental without excess weight. Freshness from the tannins and the acidity. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2035
2050
18.5

Ch Marquis d'Alesme 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Very dark with black core. Dark, spicy black fruit. Deep and inviting. Firm and chewy, thickly textured but smooth, a bit flat on the finish but easy. And fresh enough overall. (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2036
16

Ch Marquis de Terme 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Black core. Dark, rich, ripe and really spicy, pretty oaky on the nose. A touch charry plus lots of fruit. Oaky, smooth and rich, chocolate flavour and texture. Could do with a little more lift on the finish but deep and generous. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2040
16 +

Ch Monbrison 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Subdued and rather flat/dry on the palate. Lean and strangely salty on the finish, dry aftertaste. Can’t really give drink dates here. (JH)

13.5%
Drink ??
14

Ch Palmer, Alter Ego de Palmer 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. Fragrant with gorgeously pure black fruit and definite but not overdone oak. Firm, dry, elegant tannins allowing the fruit and fragrance to shine. Subtle in its power, persistent. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2042
17.5

Ch Palmer 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Dark and ripe with a hint of damsons. Ripe black plum and gently floral, plus lead pencil. Complex aroma. Rich, deep, chewy, generous and powerful with finesse on the long finish. (JH)

14%
Drink
2032
2048
17.5 +

Ch Paveil de Luze 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Aromatic with small dark wild berries. Open, dry and finely textured tannins. Nicely balanced in a lighter-bodied style. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2028
2036
16

Ch Prieuré-Lichine 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. Deep, dark fruit with lots of peppery spice. Really scented, too, with violets. Juicy core inside the firm, dry, subtle, smooth tannins. Lovely balance and nicely dry finish. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2028
2042
16.5

Ch Rauzan-Ségla, Ségla 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Sweet, fresh red and black fruits and a touch of spicy oak. Very oaky on the palate, lots of chocolate and thick texture. Smooth, thick tannins. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2042
16.5

Ch Rauzan-Ségla 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Dark crimson. Spicy dark fruit while also fragrant and open. Dry tannic finesse. Not as quite as much intensity as there is in many in this vintage but really harmonious. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2042
17

Ch Siran 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Deep garnet. Fragrant and red-fruited, touch of tea leaf. Lively and fresh-smelling. Juicy, chewy-chocolatey tannins and nicely fresh on the finish. (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2040
16.5

Ch du Tertre 2020 Margaux

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Both sweet (oaky) and leafy on the nose. Ripe and a bit green at the same time. Very smooth, mild tannins, especially in this vintage. And succulent on the finish. Mild-mannered, balanced, juicy though the oak comes back rather strongly on the finish. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2028
2038
16.5

Moulis

Ch Branas Grand Poujeaux 2020 Moulis

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Smells dark, spicy and rich. Powerful and smooth tannins and just enough fruit to fill them out. Fresh, refreshing. (JH)

14.5%
Drink
2026
2035
16

Ch Chasse-Spleen 2020 Moulis

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Dark-fruited and perfumed with violets. Open and fragrant but a little bit lean on the mid palate, though the fruit came back on the finish. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2027
2034
15 +

Ch Mauvesin Barton 2020 Moulis

Tasted blind. Deeply coloured. Aromatic and lightly leafy. Some might describe it as ‘green’, which may be positive or negative depending on your taste. It is a bit lean for me, though it has freshness and balance in this leafy style. (JH)

13%
Drink
2026
2032
15.5

Ch Poujeaux 2020 Moulis

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Pure, dark cedary fruit. Firm, slightly thick but smooth tannins. Really smooth. Easy and approachable despite the depth of tannin, which is a bit of a block on the finish at the moment, all smooth chocolate at the end. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2026
2032
16

Haut-Médoc

Ch Beaumont 2020 Haut-Médoc

Tasted blind. Deeply coloured. Leafy black fruit. Pretty lightweight, tannins well judged not to overwhelm the fruit but could do with a little more substance. Should be approachable early. I went back to this to retaste it and upped my score by half a point as I felt I had been too hard. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2026
2032
15

Ch Belgrave 2020 Haut-Médoc

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Fragrant, a touch leafy, the tannins firm and chocolatey, not quite meshed between fruit and structure yet. Just enough freshness on the finish. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2028
2035
15.5 +

Ch de Camensac 2020 Haut-Médoc

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Fresh dark and dark-red fruit, very fine tannins, lightish and elegant, fresh finish. Perhaps just slightly leafy but it will be approachable much earlier than many 2020s. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2026
2032
16

Ch Cantemerle 2020 Haut-Médoc

Tasted blind. Very dark. Sweet and ripe, a bit like Ribena. Powerful, chewy and very primary in its fruit profile, with enough freshness, just needs time to mesh. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2029
2035
16

Ch La Lagune 2020 Haut-Médoc

Tasted blind. Darkest crimson. Lightly cedary and intense black fruit on the nose. Big, smooth tannins, with juicy fruit at the core. Powerful, oaky on the mid palate and with everything in place to age well. (JH)

14%
Drink
2029
2040
17

Ch Lanessan 2020 Haut-Médoc

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Toasty suggestion of oak over the black fruit. A bit green overall and the tannins dry on the finish. Chewy. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2026
2029
14.5

Ch Sociando-Mallet 2020 Haut-Médoc

Tasted blind. Very dark. Smoky, spicy black fruit with a touch of cedar. Juicy, fine-grained tannins, lots of freshness and easy but not simple. Mouth-watering finish. (JH)

14%
Drink
2027
2035
16 +

Ch La Tour Carnet 2020 Haut-Médoc

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Dark, riper and still on the savoury side, then more cedary as it opens. Dry, fine tannins but a little dilute on the mid palate. (JH)

Drink
2025
2032
16

St-Julien

Ch Beychevelle, Amiral de Beychevelle 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Deep smudgy crimson. Open, lifted dark-red fruit. Really fragrant. Delicate, fine-boned, juicy. Not for the longest of ageing but balanced in this lighter style. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2027
2033
16

Ch Beychevelle 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Deepest crimson. Sweet, ripe and oaky on the nose though not overripe. Really grippy tannins and just enough flesh to balance – pretty demanding now. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2032
2045
17

Ch Branaire-Ducru 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Ripe yet fragrant. Finely dry, pretty tannic. Tight, fresh but not very generous. Straightforward. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2040
16

Ch Ducru-Beaucaillou 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Intense aroma of pure black fruit. Pure cassis. Very deep, rich and oaky but the fruit is the power at the core of the wine. Big and harmonious. Maybe not classic St-Julien but perhaps it is in 2020? (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2050
17.5 ++

Ch Gloria 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Spicy, sweet yet fresh dark fruits. With a cedary fresh lift. That cedary flavour on the palate, too, but this is pretty severe in its tannic structure. Demanding on the palate even though it is aromatically open. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2032
2045
16.5 +

Ch Gruaud Larose 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Very dark crimson. Pencil lead and dark fruit. Firmly tannic, quite savoury. Chewy but fresh. Tight, dry and harmonious. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2028
2040
16.5

Ch Lagrange, Les Fiefs de Lagrange 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Intense aroma of pure dark fruits and a touch of oaky vanilla. Juicy, lots of freshness, finely dry tannins. On the lighter side on the palate but balanced. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2027
2034
16.5

Ch Lagrange 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Fragrant and slightly leafy aroma of black fruit. Leafy on the palate, too, just a little bit pinched in the middle but fresh. Tannins are a little dry given the amount of fruit in the middle. Slightly tart on the finish. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2042
16.5

Ch Langoa Barton 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Fragrant, spicy dark fruit with a leafy lift. Very grippy tannins and a little bit too much tension on the palate. Tightly wound. Thickly textured and demanding. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2032
2045
16.5

Ch Léoville Barton 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. Smells rich, ripe and sweet yet still fresh-fruited. Darkly oaky and inviting. Powerful, dense tannins and enough fruit to fill them out but this needs a lot of time. Freshness on the finish. Precise and balanced even with all this tannic power, and very long. The tannins seem to add freshness. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2035
2050
17.5 +

Ch Léoville Las Cases 2020 St-Julien

Apparently, they are planning to drop Léoville from the name.
Tasted blind. Dark crimson. Lots of sweet fruit and sweet oak on the nose. And just a light leafy note. Dense, dry and refined in its tannic power, layered not massive. Long and refined even in embryo. Dark, savoury, sober on the palate, long. Lots of freshness in this powerful wine. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2035
2050
18

Ch Léoville Poyferré 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Black almost to the rim. Dark, savoury and oaky on the nose but with sweet, fresh damson fruit. Powerful, thick, dense. Not very obviously St-Julien in its infancy but has harmony within its powerful framework. Pretty dense and compact now. Moved this up half a point on retasting. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2032
2050
17.5 +

Ch Moulin Riche 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Dark greyish crimson. Ripe, dark and spicy fruit. Thickly textured, smooth tannins. Rounded but could do with a little more energy on the finish amid all that tannin. (JH)

13%
Drink
2027
2035
16 +

Ch St-Pierre 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Deepest crimson. Leafy and open with cassis fruit and bud. More refined than most of the St-Julien 2020s tasted today in terms of tannic texture, elegance, length and harmony. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2045
17.5

Ch Talbot, Connétable Talbot 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Deep greyish crimson. Very sweet aroma of red fruits. Raspberries! Light, juicy, idiosyncratic and a bit lean overall but very fresh, herbal. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2027
2032
15.5

Ch Talbot 2020 St-Julien

Tasted blind. Deep greyish crimson. Lifted with red and black fruits and slightly volatile. Very leafy and a bit toasty. Lighter than some, pretty oaky and a bit dry on the finish even though the tannins are finely textured. Too oaky for me. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2027
2038
16

Pauillac

Ch d'Armailhac 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Intensely oaky aroma of sweet spice. And overpoweringly oaky on the palate. Mouth-gripping tannins hide everything else. Fresh enough but the fruit is hidden. This was rated more highly by many in the group so I retasted it but still couldn’t get past those tannins. (JH)

13%
Drink
2030
2045
16

Ch Batailley 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Lifted and leafy black fruit. Invitingly aromatic. Darker and more savoury on the palate, the fruit intense but not really sweet, the tannins fine. Dry tannic finesse and length but oaky and oaky-sweet on the finish. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2028
2040
17

Ch Clerc Milon 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Dark, rich and spicy on the nose but also a touch raisiny, as it is on the palate. Fruit lacks energy. Thick, firm tannins. It could be that it just needs a lot of time but the fruit did not seem fresh enough to take my score higher. (JH)

13%
Drink
2027
2035
15.5 +

Ch Duhart-Milon 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Open, black fruit, something biscuity on the nose. Firm but juicy on the palate but a bit drying on the finish. (JH)

12.5%
Drink
2026
2032
16

Ch Grand-Puy Ducasse 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Dark-fruited and slightly charry aroma with lots of fresh black fruit underneath. Very firm, thickish tannins on the palate, chocolate-like, and could do with a little more freshness to balance. Firm and chewy yet with the dark-fruited classicism of Pauillac. Firm and embryonic. (JH)

14.5%
Drink
2030
2040
17

Ch Grand-Puy-Lacoste 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Pure vibrant dark fruit on the nose. Powerfully dry and tannic but with finesse and great length. Lots of grip holding the fruit in check. Moderate length but nicely fresh. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2029
2042
17

Ch Haut-Batailley, Verso 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Fragrant with fresh dark fruits. Tight, fine, elegant. Not very fleshy in the middle but nicely balanced. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2028
2034
16

Ch Haut-Batailley 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Very dark crimson. Pure, lightly spiced dark fruit. Powerfully built on the palate for the long term but the harmony is there for it to age well. Chewy, complete. For the moment at least, bit abrupt on the finish, tied up in the tannins. (JH)

Drink
2028
2040
17 +

Ch Lafite Rothschild, Carruades de Lafite 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Smells of rich and spicy black fruit. Open and aromatic. Deliciously aromatic on the palate, the tannins compact and very fine, giving an elegant framework for the pure fruit. A bit dry on the finish. (JH)

13%
Drink
2030
2045
17

Ch Lafite Rothschild 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Dark greyish crimson. Fragrant and refined. A whisper of oak and lovely dark fruit. Juicy, fresh, surprisingly approachable with lots of freshness and refinement in the texture. Sour-fresh finish, real freshness for 2020. Juicy, harmonious, long. (JH)

12.5%
Drink
2030
2050
17.5

Ch Latour, Pauillac de Château Latour 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep dark crimson. Gorgeously fragrant and pure black fruit. Open and aromatic. Lots of acidity here, just held in place by the other components but it is not fully meshed yet. Vibrant, juicy, finely tannic. (JH)

Drink
2028
2038
17.5

Ch Latour, Les Forts de Latour 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Very dark crimson. Pure, fragrant dark fruit. Harmonious, succulent with beautifully fine tannins. Immense refinement and length without sheer mass. (JH)

Drink
2028
2044
18

Ch Latour 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. Very sweet and very oaky with a hint of vanilla. Thick, chewy and powerful, dense tannins with a streak of freshness through to the long finish. Extreme and not fully meshed so the acidity shows a little on the finish. Going back to it, I find more refinement and better integration. (JH)

Drink
2035
2050
17.5 ++

Ch Lynch-Bages, Écho de Lynch-Bages 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Pure, fragrant black fruit, slightly leafy in a nice way. Savoury and less fragrant on the mid palate but with an attractive dark restraint. Tannins are refined. Dryish finish. (JH)

13%
Drink
2027
2036
16

Ch Lynch-Bages 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. Dark and closed on the nose. Savoury, oaky and dense, rather unyielding now. But the tannins are not thick just very much to the fore at the moment. Powerful. (JH)

13%
Drink
2030
2048
17 ++

Ch Lynch-Moussas 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Ripe and open, slightly evolved, complex aromas of bottle age even now, leathery on the palate, too, but pleasurable in that spicy, slightly rustic way. Juicy, tannins really quite resolved. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2026
2032
16

Ch Mouton Rothschild, Le Petit Mouton 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Dark, pure, savoury and smoky. Oaky, too. Smells so pure despite the oak sweetness. Really fine tannins, extremely pure with tannic finesse. Harmonious, the power hidden under an elegant exterior. (JH)

13%
Drink
2030
2045
17.5

Ch Mouton Rothschild 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Lifted dark and dark-red fruits but also lots of sweet oak spice. Very oaky, very smooth, luscious and long. So rich. Chewy, massive, dense. (JH)

13%
Drink
2035
2050
18 ++

Pauillac – Farr Vintners 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Dark greyish crimson. Subdued aroma of slightly leafy dark fruits. Dry, firm tannins and marked acidity on the finish without a huge amount of fruit in the middle – could be a bit too leafy for some. (JH)

14%
Drink
2027
2033
16

Ch Pédesclaux 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. Peppery dark fruit and perhaps a hint of smoky reduction. Smells pretty oaky. Tastes pretty oaky, too, but the tannins are fine grained and it’s fresh on the finish. Straightforward Pauillac. (JH)

13%
Drink
2028
2035
16

Ch Pichon Baron, ​Les Griffons de Pichon Baron 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Invitingly pure dark-fruit aroma with some oak sweetness. Pretty oaky and woody on the palate and could do with more fruit at the core, which may emerge with time. Chewy finish. Going back to retaste this wine, which was highly rated by the group, I felt I had underscored it and missed the lively Cabernet fruit under the dominant oak, especially on the finish. So I upped my score by half a point. (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2032
16

Ch Pichon Baron 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Black core with purple rim. Rather charry and oaky on the nose, almost hiding seductively pure damson fruit. Deep-fruited, firmly tannic and serious rather than inviting on the palate. Savoury dark power. Very marked by the oak. (JH)

14%
Drink
2032
2050
17.5

Ch Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Sweetly fruited and toasty on the nose with masses of charry oak but also the pure, dark character of Pauillac underneath, hints of tea leaf. A big, dense, powerful but harmonious wine. (JH)

14%
Drink
2035
2050
17.5

Ch Pontet-Canet 2020 Pauillac

Tasted blind. Deepest crimson but more evolved than some. Very ripe pure Ribena aroma. Firm and rather dry tannins with a touch of dark chocolate on the finish but a bit stalky after the initial sweetness. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2028
2040
15.5

St-Estèphe

Ch Le Boscq 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. A touch stony and peppery, openly aromatic. Fresh, juicy, straightforward. Not very long but very smooth. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2026
2034
15.5

Ch Calon Ségur, Le Marquis de Calon Ségur 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Very dark with narrow rim. Really fragrant but subtle, fresh aroma of black fruit with a light leafy as well as riper damson note. Juicy, fresh, refined tannins. Elegant and harmonious with lots of freshness and length. (JH)

14.5%
Drink
2029
2043
17

Ch Calon Ségur 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Open, dark-fruited and peppery with a lovely dark savoury character. Powerful, dry, elegant and all set for the long term. Really well integrated. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2045
17.5

Ch Capbern 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Black core with crimson rim. Dark and leafily fragrant fruit. A little bit dense on the palate, tannins and acidity dominating the fruit but the tannins are polished and I think this just needs time. Gravelly finish. (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2036
16.5 +

Ch Cos Labory 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Both floral and oaky black fruit. Big, thick tannins and a lack of fruit at the core, so the finish is a bit drying. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2027
2035
15

Ch Cos d'Estournel, Pagodes de Cos 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Darker-fruited and more savoury than the Marquis de Calon. Peppery/spicy oak. Lifted and very fresh on the palate, relatively light but balanced. Finely dry tannins, juicy finish. (JH)

13%
Drink
2028
2036
16.5

Ch Cos d'Estournel 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Very dark crimson. Lightly spicy dark fruit. Relatively light-bodied with super-fine tannins. Rather delicate for a 2020, but all in balance. The tannins supple and harmonious even though this needs time. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2028
2038
16.5

Ch Le Crock 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Inky crimson. Black-fruited and oaky. Nicely judged tannins but the fruit is slightly stewed on the finish. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2028
2036
15.5

Ch Haut-Marbuzet 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Deepest crimson. Perfumed dark fruit. Highly floral. Dry texture, dry and drying on the finish. Firm and desperately needs a bit more flesh in the middle. (JH)

14%
Drink
2028
2038
15.5

Ch Lafon-Rochet 2020 St-Estèphe

Basile Tesseron’s last vintage.
Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Rather reluctant on the nose. Dark and savoury impression. Lightly leafy. On the palate, this is lovely: smooth, refined tannins and a dark elegance overall. Lots of finesse and a long finish. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2045
17

Ch Lilian Ladouys 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Fragrant with red and black fruits. Open and perfumed. Lightish, fine tannins, all balanced in a wine that may not age as long as some but won’t need to be cellared for too long either. Lightweight and straightforward. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2027
2032
16

Ch Meyney 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Deepest crimson, like damson skins. Sweet and dark-fruited at the same time. Savoury too. Not yet open but complex. Rich fruit filling out elegant dry tannins, dark-fruited and long. Power yet refined. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2045
18

Ch Montrose, La Dame de Montrose 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Black core with purplish rim. Smells rich and warmly dark-fruited. Touch of rubbery reduction that should blow off. Big and juicy at the core, the tannins firm and smoothed. Doesn’t have the power of some. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2042
16.5

Ch Montrose 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Deepest crimson. Pure, fragrant, dark and elegant. A touch floral and subtle in its intensity. Elegantly textured with super-fine tannins. Really refined, long. Pure. Bone dry and elegant. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2035
2050
18.5

Ch Les Ormes de Pez 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Delicately fragrant with dark-red fruits then oak spice overlay. Big, chewy tannins but with all the fruit you could want to keep it in balance. Big yet balanced, the tannins nicely done to balance both power and finesse. I was more enthusiastic than some of the other tasters on the day. (JH)

13%
Drink
2030
2045
17

Ch Phélan Ségur 2020 St-Estèphe

Tasted blind. Deep crimson. Darkly fragrant and just slightly leafy. Powerful tannins, though the texture is fine and there is all to play for. Savoury, dark and long. For the long term. (JH)

13.5%
Drink
2030
2048
17 ++

Ch Tronquoy-Lalande 2020 St-Estèphe

Not yet released, apparently because the owners are ‘repositioning’ this wine. 2019 just released.
Tasted blind. Black core, crimson rim. Dark, intense and savoury aroma of pure black fruits. Thick tannins are a bit too dominant on the palate, obscuring the fruit for now. Firm and long but could do with a tad more freshness on the finish. (JH)

14%
Drink
2029
2042
17