Burgundy 2011 K-O

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See Burgundy 2011 – a complete guide to our coverage for how to find your way round our now fully edited and ordered 1,883 tasting notes on this interesting and very varied vintage and a broad sweep of articles which, taken together, give a fair guide to 2011 burgundies. We would draw your attention in particular to the overview of the Côte de Beaune and that of the Côte de Beaune.

The wines below are listed by producer in alphabetical order by (sur)name. Within each producer, wines are listed with whites preceding reds and then generally upwards by conventional status, or at least tasting order in the cellar.

DOMAINE PIERRE LABET

Dom Pierre Labet, Les Tillets 2011 Meursault

Biodynamic. Smokily reductive with struck-match aroma – inviting and promising because there's citrus depth there, too. Depth and concentration without fat or weight. Determined and promising though there's pleasure now. Light grip on the finish. GV (JH)
Drink
2015
2024
£280 per case of 12 ib Corney & Barrow
17.5

Dom Pierre Labet, Aux Coucherias Premier Cru 2011 Beaune

Biodynamic. Already harmonious and approachable, though there's a kick of tannin on the finish indicating a longer future than the first taste suggested. Relatively dense and compact. Very self-assured and good length. QGV (JH)
Drink
2016
2025
£250 per case of 12 ib Corney & Barrow
17

DOMAINE MICHEL LAFARGE

Dom Michel Lafarge 2011 Meursault

Wet stones and not that concentrated. Actually not quite as winning as their Aligoté! Stolid with a very dry finish.
Drink
2015
2018
15.5 +

Dom Michel Lafarge, Vendanges Sélectionnées 2011 Meursault

Special parcels. Under Santenots and some other special terroirs.
More minerality. Certainly more tension than the regular Meursault with a sleekness of texture. Racy and round but certainly not sweet. Very comfortable in its own skin.
Drink
2015
2020
£275 per case of 12 ib A&B Vintners
16.5

Dom Michel Lafarge 2011 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains

Half Gamay. Complantés as in the old style. Which means they sync ripening rather than Gamay ripening much earlier. Good frank mouthful of fruit and pretty rustic but a true expression of one of Burgundy’s specialities. A tad skinny on the end.
Drink
2013
2016
15

Dom Michel Lafarge, L'Exception 2011 Bourgogne Passetoutgrains

85-year-old vines on the border of Meursault; very gravelly and very suitable for complanté Gamay and Pinot. Hi grandfather started with Clos des Chênes and this vineyard which was then young. One hectare and still very healthy. The wine is in homage to Frédéric’s grandfather.
Very intense and bone dry but bursting with personality. More tannin and concentration than the regular bottling.
Drink
2014
2017
16.5

Dom Michel Lafarge Pinot Noir 2011 Bourgogne

Round, glossy fruit that is dry on the finish but delightfully transparent now. Light weight and relatively simple but comes cloaked in Volnay character. Between the RN74 and Volnay vineyards – an especially good strip for Bourgogne. Sweeter than the Exception.
Drink
2014
2017
16.5

Dom Michel Lafarge 2011 Volnay

Mossy and quite light on the nose. Lightweight and pretty still with some dissolved gas. Definitely not the real Volnay weapon in their arsenal!
Drink
2015
2022
16.5

Dom Michel Lafarge, Vendanges Sélectionnées 2011 Volnay

Terroir selection in the centre of the appellation just below the premiers crus.
Much more concentrated than the regular bottling. Great vivacity and lots more fruit gives this a longer drinking window. Very silky. Very Volnay.
Drink
2014
2024
£305 per case of 12 ib A&B Vintners
17

Dom Michel Lafarge, Les Grèves Premier Cru 2011 Beaune

90-year-old vines – their oldest. Very subtle nose with real depth and – dare I say it? – minerality. Very far from straightforward sweet fruit. Still youthful but very convincing. Dry finish.
Drink
2017
2030
17

Dom Michel Lafarge, Premier Cru 2011 Volnay

Very explosive nose – great panoply of fruits. Very alluring. Very bright fruited and fresh with real zing. A guided missile aimed at the palate. Lovely stuff! Sinewy, not heavy, but with great character, finely etched and no shortage of fruit.
Drink
2017
2030
17.5

Dom Michel Lafarge, Les Mitans Premier Cru 2011 Volnay

White clays give rather firm tannins. Quite dark crimson. Concentrated almost animal notes with a firm corset. A bit reticent and very dry for the moment. Definitely one for the cellar!
Drink
2020
2034
£315 per case of 6 ib A&B Vintners
17.5

Dom Michel Lafarge, Clos du Château des Ducs Premier Cru 2011 Volnay

Old calcaire soils and quite brown. Deep gravel on top of calcaire. Not that dark. Aromatic, fresh and gentle. Quite forward. Very charming. Maybe a bit less serious than the Mitans. Glorious already. Very long, suggests there’s a glorious future for this wine too.
Drink
2016
2032
£315 per case of 6 ib A&B Vintners
18

Dom Michel Lafarge, Clos des Chênes Premier Cru 2011 Volnay

Almost 1 ha (16 ha in total). Red and much shallower soils above the calcaire.
Much darker colour than most. Big and broad and welcoming. Very substantial with real breadth of fruit. Rich start and very subtle. Not an ounce of skinniness. Great race and persistence. You know it will last amazingly well but it has such depth and fruit you want to drink it already! Long and reverberant.
Drink
2016
2036
£355 per case of 6 ib A&B Vintners
18

Dom Michel Lafarge, Les Pézerolles Premier Cru 2011 Pommard

Vines in the middle of the vineyard – just 0.15 ha on Dolomite calcaire.
Very rich, opulent nose. Dark ruby. Then quite marked acidity and tannin – quite a different build to the Volnays! Much tougher. Struts rather than dances. Dry finish for the moment.
Drink
2020
2032
17.5

DOMAINE FRANÇOIS LAMARCHE

Dom François Lamarche, Grand Cru 2011 La Grande Rue

Nervy and dramatic with lovely balance between fruit and structure. Long and rich and the flavours just yo-yo over the palate. Lovely stuff but look at the price! Clean and long.
Drink
2016
2032
£1,095 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd, £1,045 per case of 6 ib Jeroboams
18

DOMAINE DES LAMBRAYS

Dom des Lambrays 2011 Morey-St-Denis

Reduced nose but some agreeable liquorice aromas. Tastes like blackcurrant throat lozenges. Distinctive!
Drink
2016
2025
£174 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd, £340 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
16

Dom des Lambrays 2011 Morey-St-Denis

Magic! The flavour is something like boiled sweets – or blackcurrant cough mixture – very Bordelais flavours, really, but the structure is defiantly Burgundian – so light on its feet. Bold, idiosyncratic. (RH)
Drink
2015
2030
£174 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd, £340 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark, £165 per case of 6 ib Jeroboams
17.5

Dom des Lambrays, Grand Cru 2011 Clos des Lambrays

Pretty leafy overall, verging on 2004 pyrazines but has better depth to compensate and hide that characteristic. Not very good value for money. (JH)
Drink
2017
2025
£495 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley, £495 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd, £475 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
16

Dom des Lambrays, Grand Cru 2011 Clos des Lambrays

Tight, tense, exciting on the nose. Rich and broad and ready to make a splash. Lots of riches. Very different wine from the madding crowd! As it should be for the price.
Drink
2016
2032
£495 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley, £495 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd, £475 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark, £455 per case of 6 ib Jeroboams
17

DOMAINE HUBERT LAMY

Dom Hubert Lamy, Les Frionnes Premier Cru 2011 St-Aubin

Top notes of wet stones. Some richness and lots of tension. Very well done. All in its place – though it does taste almost more like a nervy Pouilly-Fuissé than a Côte d'Or wine.
Drink
2015
2023
£210 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
16.5

Dom Hubert Lamy, En Remilly Premier Cru 2011 St-Aubin

Very toothsome and lip smacking. The nose alone really gets the saliva flowing. Juicy and precise, though this needs a bit of time in bottle. Would put many grander appellations to shame. Showing better than some other Lamy premiers crus did yesterday chez Goedhuis.
Drink
2014
2020
£270 per case of 12 ib Flint
16.5 +

Dom Hubert Lamy, Les Tremblots 2011 Puligny-Montrachet

Lovely purity on the nose. And then some attractive richness on the palate. Very nicely constituted. Almost brilliant! Complete. Better than some premiers crus.
Drink
2015
2022
£295 per case of 12 ib OW Loeb
17

DOMAINE SYLVAIN LANGOUREAU

Dom Sylvain Langoureau 2011 St-Aubin

Very crisp with a slightly sour freshness on the finish. For those who like really high acidity. There's fruit texture but only a slight citrus flavour. Tight and more wine than fruit, if you know what I mean. (JH)
Drink
2013
2015
£100 per case of 12 ib Genesis
15.5

Dom Sylvain Langoureau, La Garenne Premier Cru 2011 Puligny-Montrachet

Not much on the nose, a light stoniness, then an explosion of freshness on the palate. A combination of intense citrus purity, stony minerality and just enough creaminess to balance the high acidity. Direct and piercing. GV (JH)
Drink
2015
2021
£250 per case of 12 ib Genesis
17

DOMAINE LAROCHE

Dom Laroche 2011 Chablis

Good oyster-shell character, clean modern fruit, light and simple and reliable. (RH) 12.5%
Drink
2013
2016
£14.99 RRP (imported by Liberty)
15.5

Dom Laroche, St-Martin 2011 Chablis

Very much like their non-Domaine bottling – good, standard, but perhaps looking a bit expensive? (RH) 12.5%
Drink
2013
2016
£17.99 RRP (imported by Liberty)
15.5

Dom Laroche, Vau de Vey Premier Cru 2011 Chablis

Riper than the basic Chablis, but not fully realising the full premier cru potential. Invigorating but not captivating. (RH) 12.5%
Drink
2013
2018
£22.99 RRP (imported by Liberty)
16.5

Dom Laroche, Vau de Vey Premier Cru 2011 Chablis

Tank sample. They have 10 ha. Left bank, E-facing, steep slope. Small, cool valley, like an amphitheatre. Woods at the top. Cooler environment with N winds. Lots of clay with a layer of limestone on the surface. 35-year-old vines. 15% aged in French oak, 20% of which is new. pH 3.36.
Really stony and mineral on the nose. Lean but intense, not giving much away at the moment but very fine. Fine citrus. 'Vertical'. Great tension and minerality. (JH) 12.8%
Drink
2015
2025
Liberty, Fine Wine Co, Slurp
17.5

Dom Laroche, Vaillons Vieilles Vignes Premier Cru 2011 Chablis

Tank sample. Left bank, E-facing. 35-year-old vines. Limestone with rocky topsoil. Specific hydric conditions – easy to get ripeness. 15% aged in French oak, 20% of which is new. pH 3.36.
More fragrant than the Vau de Vey. Makes me think of spring though there isn't really anything floral there – perhaps a touch of white blossom. Sour stony clarity and some green apple on the palate and opens up to more peach, even a precursor of honey. Spicy aftertaste but there's a ripeness on the finish that comes through in weight and fulness in the mouth rather than ripe fruit spectrum – moving closer to the Côte de Beaune. The opposite of Vau de Vey. Here ripeness is held in check and less concentration than in the Vaillons. (JH) 13.1%
Drink
2014
2022
17

Dom Laroche, Côte de Léchet Premier Cru 2011 Chablis

Cask sample. Small plot – 20 ares – in front of the winery. 15-year-old vines. Left bank. Light clay so ripeness increases quickly. This was the first premier cru plot to be picked, on 8 September. 'Always ripe and generous', said winemaker Gregory Viennois. pH 3.22.
Creamy, almost peachy, especially compared with the sharper-smelling Fourneaux. Creamy oatmeal and a light touch of citrus but stony too. You might even think it has seen some oak but it has had very little – 15% aged in French oak, of which 20% is new. Super fresh and surprisingly dense and full in the mouth. (JH) 13.5%
Drink
2014
2019
16.5

Dom Laroche, Les Fourneaux Premier Cru 2011 Chablis

Tank sample. Close to Mont de Milieu. Steep slope with good exposition. 25-year-old vines. 2,000 bottles. 15% aged in French oak, of which 20% is new. pH 3.31.
The aroma is much sharper than the Côte de Léchet. Stony, almost as if there was some white pepper there, maybe capsicum but not that green. Tense and razor-like on the palate. More linear than the Léchet but has a more rounded fulness on the finish. Acidity tastes higher than the Léchet but it isn't. Needs longer than the Léchet. (JH) 13.5%
Drink
2015
2023
17

Dom Laroche, Beauroy Premier Cru 2011 Chablis

Tank sample. Left bank. Small slope with SW exposition. 30-year-old vines. Lot of limestone so keeps good acidity. Quite a lot of clay too. 15% aged in French oak, 20% of which is new. pH 3.41.
Ripe fruit. Intense aroma of tangerine peel and pink grapefruit and a touch of spice – maybe a touch of reduction too, which I have not noticed in the other wines. Fennel someone suggests. Gingerbread another. Tight and zesty on the palate and less mineral than the Fourneaux. Intense and long and pure. (JH) 13.3%
Drink
2015
2025
17.5

Dom Laroche, Montmains Premier Cru 2011 Chablis

Tank sample. Left bank, SW-facing slopes. Clay-limestone. 30-year-old vines. 15% aged in French oak, 20% of which is new. pH 3.38.
More evidence of oak on the nose though the oak is the same as on the Beauroy, more creamy and mealy. Bright acidity, almost tart, and more savoury than fruity though there is fresh citrus too. Opens to a touch of honey. Firm and quite powerful with a long finish. Less personality than the Beauroy at this stage, tastes softer on the finish (relatively speaking). (JH) 13.2%
Drink
2014
2023
17

Dom Laroche, Fourchaume Vieilles Vignes Premier Cru 2011 Chablis

Right bank, SW-facing slopes. 65-year-old vines. 15% aged in French oak, 20% of which is new. pH 3.36.
Really spicy over the stony Chablis aroma. Just a touch vegetal. More clementine pith on the palate and a great deal of power and push to a long finish. Drives across the palate. (JH) 13.2%
Drink
2015
2025
17.5 +

LOUIS LATOUR including HENRY FESSY, and SIMONNET-FEBVRE

Louis Latour 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet

Crisp, bright and lively, filled out on the mid palate with a creamy lees richness. Firm long finish. Quite a lot of power. (JH)
Drink
2015
2020
16.5

Louis Latour 2011 Puligny-Montrachet

Oaky on the nose but creamy too and a touch of orange peel. Minerally, perhaps a little reductive, on the palate, but greater finesse than the Meursaults. Zesty and long. (JH)
Drink
2015
2021
16.5

Louis Latour, Perrières Premier Cru 2011 Meursault

Mealy, oaky nose. Pretty oaky on the palate but has fruit density to carry the oak. Has intensity and length rather than finesse. Good concentration relative to many 2011s. (JH)
Drink
2015
2021
16.5

Dom Louis Latour, Grand Cru 2011 Corton-Charlemagne

Cask sample. Restrained – more mineral than fruit on the nose – but hints at the concentration on the palate. The creamy oak effect is filled out by intense and zesty citrus fruit. Power and length and finesse. Impressive now but lots of potential too. Succulent as well as dense. (JH)

Drink
2015
2025
17

Henry Fessy 2011 Brouilly

Purplish crimson. Lots of fine crunchy Gamay fruit. Juicy and sweet and fresh. Delicious. (JH)
Drink
2013
2015
16

Henry Fessy 2011 Côte de Brouilly

Hint of oak on the nose taking away slightly from the brightness of the Gamay fruit on the nose but it re-emerges on the palate. Deep fruit, generous and lightly but well structured. Moreish. (JH)
Drink
2014
2016
16.5

Simonnet-Febvre 2011 Chablis

More intense citrus aroma than the Petit Chablis and delicately creamy. Well balanced and better concentration than many a Chablis with a 'higher' appellation. Long, defined finish. Impressive. (JH)
Drink
2014
2016
16

Simonnet-Febvre, Preuses 2011 Chablis Grand Cru

Tank sample. Tense and stony and with Chablis dustiness, definitely not a fruity wine at first but it opens out to citrus freshness, with weight and length. Plenty of lees work, apparently. (JH)
Drink
2015
2022
17

Simonnet-Febvre, Les Clos 2011 Chablis Grand Cru

Tank sample. The only wine that has any exposure to oak. A light oak note on the nose. Creamy, rich and quite generous with a nice line of acidity to balance. Full in the mouth and long. (JH)
Drink
2016
2023
17

DOMAINE DIDIER LARUE


DOMAINE LEBREUIL

Dom Lebreuil Pinot Noir 2011 Bourgogne

Vines on the Hautes Côtes apparently. Pale cherry red. Lively, vaguely earthy wine. Pure, a little lean for most tastes probably.
Drink
2013
2016
£99 per case of 12 ib Flint
15.5

DOMAINE OLIVIER LEFLAIVE

Dom Olivier Leflaive, Grand Cru 2011 Chevalier-Montrachet

Tight knit, very linear and bony kind of style. Not at all luscious or broad: all focused and tangy. Good, but doesn’t seem to have the wow factor of the best grand crus. (RH)
Drink
2016
2028
£880 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
17 +

Dom Olivier Leflaive, Grand Cru 2011 Bâtard-Montrachet

Nutty and pure, but perhaps not the profound expressiveness you might hope for. Having said that, it is impressively long, with very fine balance of acid and flavour intensity. (RH)
Drink
2017
2030
£695 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark, £1195 per case of 6 ib Jeroboams
17 +

DOMAINE LEFLAIVE and LEFLAIVE ET ASSOCIÉS

Dom Leflaive 2011 Bourgogne

Very floral – a bouquet already! Blossomy. Neat and chalky finish. Only medium intensity but very well balanced. No hurry to drink.
Drink
2013
2017
£245 per case of 12 ib Jeroboams
16

Dom Leflaive 2011 Mâcon-Verzé

Picked September. Much tauter nose than most Mâcons. Sample picked just before fining.
Needs a bit of encouragement out of the glass – really quite austere. Very distinctive. Rather tough finish. Wait quite a while for this! Though it opens out on the end. Hardly any oak.
Drink
2014
2017
16

Leflaive et Associés, Premier Cru 2011 Rully

Made from 2008 onwards. Two premiers crus blended. All in oak.
Sweet and floral nose. Quite creamy. Lean and sleek and very citrus on the palate. Sophisticated oak and winemaking – halfway between Puligny and Rully! (Chagny?) Really crisp acidity and very appetising for purists.
Drink
2014
2018
16.5

Dom Leflaive 2011 Puligny-Montrachet

Quite a light nose. Absolutely not a trace of oak. Lots of youthful citrus and acidity. Really quite a challenge at the moment. Definitely needs time to round out.
Drink
2015
2023
£435 per case of 12 ib Jeroboams
16.5

Dom Leflaive, Sous le Dos d'Âne Premier Cru 2011 Meursault

Next to Perrières and Eric Remy feels each year brings more and more minerality. Relatively broad nose. Then it tighten up to some quite pronounced acidity and real tension but that nose is quite unlike the Pulignys!
Drink
2014
2022
16.5

Dom Leflaive, Les Pucelles Premier Cru 2011 Puligny-Montrachet

Neat, mid intensity. Lovely freshness and pure acidity after a firm palate. Very serious and dry and grown up. Lots of concentration. Lots of intensity compensating for the acidity. Very persistent.
Drink
2016
2025
£595 per case of 6 ib Jeroboams
17.5

Dom Leflaive, Clavoillon Premier Cru 2011 Puligny-Montrachet

Mid gold. Already some interest on the nose – a hit of something mineral – putty? Mid weight and the intensity fruit almost disguises the acidity. Very embryonic and unknit – but ambitious.
Drink
2016
2024
£595 per case of 12 ib Jeroboams
17

Dom Leflaive, Grand Cru 2011 Bâtard-Montrachet

Pale. Quite low key on the nose for a Bâtard. Then some pretty broad fruit on the palate but almost more Leflaive than Bâtard! Restrained and very delineated and with lots of acidity. Not as rich as most though it develops on the end…
Drink
2018
2030
17.5 +

Dom Leflaive, Grand Cru 2011 Chevalier-Montrachet

Pale. More expressive on the nose than the Bienvenues or Bâtard. Already singing a song. Very tight on the end but chirping up breezily with great definition on the palate. Very finely etched. Then a dry finish. Not as ethereal as some other vintages but recognisably Chevalier. Opened out on the very end.
Drink
2018
2028
£1375 per case of 6 ib Jeroboams
17.5 +

Leflaive et Associés, Sur la Velle Premier Cru 2010 Monthelie

NB vintage. Quite light for a 2010 and attractively scented. Bit of truffle on the nose and great freshness plus the broad, almost strawberry fruit on the palate. Juicy and with a bit more grip than the 2011. But very much in the same mould.
Drink
2015
2022
16.5 +

Leflaive et Associés, Grand Cru 2011 Charmes-Chambertin

Made from 2009 on. 80% whole bunch. Mid cherry red. A lively rendition of this climat on the nose. Mid weight and even relatively light for a Charmes. Very sprightly – maybe too much so? Certainly not much gravitas! An entertainment rather than thoroughly satisfying.
Drink
2015
2024
16.5 +

Leflaive et Associés, Grand Cru 2010 Charmes-Chambertin

NB vintage. Several parcels belonging to one proprietor, in conversion in 2010. Pale crimson. Lightly peppery top note. Truly charming with a attractively salty touch. Very refined and much easier to read than the 2011. Polished and accomplished. Not forced. Some whole bunch depending on vintage – 100% in 2010.
Drink
2016
2026
17.5

DOMAINE RENÉ LEQUIN-COLIN


BENJAMIN LEROUX

Benjamin Leroux, Les Vireuils 2011 Meursault

Limey and just a touch reductive (smoky/toasty). Dry and tense and long. Mouthwateringly fresh and finely balanced. A tight/slim style of Meursault. Meursault in stays. (JH)
Drink
2015
2022
£165 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
17

Benjamin Leroux, Champeaux Premier Cru 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin

Mid cherry red. Ripe cherry, perhaps had a little too much air in this sample. Aside from that it is rounded and gentle and full of attractive fruit. Quite tight, very fresh on the finish. Good depth. (JH)
Drink
2016
2026
£222 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley
16.5 +

Benjamin Leroux, Champeaux Premier Cru 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin

Relaxed and gentle when tasted straight after the Croix/Camille Giroud wines. A gentle hand – or hands-off may be the more appropriate expression. Correct and not forced. Real energy here. But only medium richness on the end.
Drink
2016
2024
£222 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
16.5

DOMAINE THIBAULT LIGER-BELAIR


DOMAINE LUCIE & AUGUSTE LIGNIER


DOMAINE LIGNIER-MICHELOT

Dom Lignier-Michelot 2011 Bourgogne

Rich, liqueur-like nose and then a bit dry and brutal on the palate. No shortage of beef per penny!
Drink
2015
2017
£130 per case of 12 ib Bordeaux Index
16

Dom Lignier-Michelot, Vieilles Vignes 2011 Morey-St-Denis

Bright crimson. Richness and layers on the nose even of this village wine. Lots going on here – very flattering and intriguing. Super appetising. Really very good for a village wine. GV
Drink
2016
2024
£237 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
16.5

SYLVAIN LOICHET


DOMAINE FRANÇOIS LUMPP


DOMAINE MICHEL MAGNIEN


DOMAINE DES MALANDES

Dom des Malandes 2011 Petit Chablis

Apple skin, fresh herbs, light mealy quality – reaches higher than most Petit Chablis, although it finishes briefly. (RH) 12%
Drink
2013
2016
£12.35 RRP (Imported by Charles Hawkins)
15.5

Dom des Malandes 2011 Chablis

Less overt fruit than the Petit Chablis, but more texture, acid and length. Classic and archetypical. (RH) 12.5%
Drink
2013
2018
£13.85 RRP (Imported by Charles Hawkins)
16

Dom des Malandes, Vau de Vey Premier Cru 2011 Chablis

Touch of apricot and peach here, and perhaps a slither of oak? Certainly fuller and more interesting than the Côte de Léchet. Slight cheese quality. Subtle but delicious. (RH) 13%
Drink
2013
2020
£16.50 RRP (Imported by Charles Hawkins)
17

Dom des Malandes, Fourchaume Premier Cru 2011 Chablis

A very slight chew to give texture, plus plenty of bright green apple fruit. Great intesnsity on the mid-palate – certainly has ageing potential. Drink the Vau de Vey while waiting for this? (RH) 13%
Drink
2015
2021
£19 RRP (Imported by Charles Hawkins)
17

Dom des Malandes, Vaudésir 2011 Chablis Grand Cru

Really charming breadth of fruit, and the oak is hugely complimentary. Dry but not austere, a little spiciness on the finish. Excellent. (RH) 13%
Drink
2013
2023
£35.75 RRP (Imported by Charles Hawkins), £290 per case of 12 ib Jeroboams
17.5

Dom des Malandes, Les Clos 2011 Chablis Grand Cru

Apple, apricot, a bit more substance than the Vaudésir, and more intensity too. Seems to call for longer ageing. Very attractive primary fruit scent nonetheless, and well integrated oak. (RH) 13%
Drink
2016
2024
£37 RRP (Imported by Charles Hawkins), £295 per case of 12 ib Jeroboams
17.5

PASCAL MARCHAND

Pascal Marchand, Grand Cru 2011 Corton-Charlemagne

Nutty character and sweet spice from oak, and sweet fruit salad. Finely balanced, very modern and polished. Perhaps just a bit too much oak? (RH)
Drink
2014
2020
£305 per case of 6 ib Jeroboams
16.5

MARQUIS DE LAGUICHE – see under D for DROUHIN

DOMAINE MARTELET DE CHERISEY and COMTESSE BERNARD DE CHERISEY


DOMAINE THIERRY ET PASCALE MATROT

Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot Chardonnay 2011 Bourgogne

Organic. Interesting nose. Bizarre as it sounds, I thought there was a hint of coffee along with the bright citrus but perhaps it is just a touch smoky. Creamy and very moreish. Straightforward and satisfying. A little bit hard on the finish. (JH)
Drink
2014
2016
£105 per case of 12 ib Corney & Barrow
15.5

Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot 2011 St-Romain

Creamy, mealy lemon/grapefruit aroma. Pretty tart – the acidity just too crisp for the fruit weight but might be better with food. (JH)
Drink
2015
2017
£170 per case of 12 ib Corney & Barrow
16

Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Blagny Premier Cru 2011 Meursault

Organic. Quite marked reduction: a bit rubbery on the nose. More struck-match on the palate. Hard to read though it clearly has very fresh acidity, as do all these Matrot whites. I'll give it the benefit of the doubt as there's definitely some concentration here. (JH)

Drink
2015
2018
£395 per case of 12 ib Corney & Barrow
16.5

Dom Thierry et Pascale Matrot, Charmes Premier Cru 2011 Meursault

Organic. Much less reductive than the straight Meursault so that the delicate, mineral dusty aroma is allowed to emerge. But it is still pretty introvert. Mind you, there's tension and concentration and purity on the palate and good length. Succulent and mouthwatering. (JH)
Drink
2015
2024
£425 per case of 12 ib Corney & Barrow
17

DOMAINE MÉO-CAMUZET

Dom Méo-Camuzet 2011 Bourgogne

Quite dense cherry red. Very slightly raw fruit. Solid.
Drink
2015
2018
£150 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks
15.5

Dom Méo-Camuzet, Aux Boudots Premier Cru 2011 Nuits-St-Georges

Bright purplish crimson. Slightly raw notes on the nose. Quite demanding with some oak in evidence. But some purity too. Some more like a tisane than a ferment – lots of maceration perhaps?
Drink
2016
2024
£996 per case of 12 ib Lay & Wheeler
16

DOMAINE OLIVIER MERLIN

Dom Olivier Merlin, Clos des Quarts 2011 Pouilly-Fuissé

Very lively with lots of acidity and punch. Longevity too. This is the property that Olivier Merlin and Dom Lafon have just bought together. Racy and long. Lovely stuff!
Drink
2014
2018
£180 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
17

DOMAINE LOUIS MICHEL

Dom Louis Michel 2011 Chablis

Light and wet stony. But not very intense. Clean but not thrilling. Pretty astringent finish.
Drink
2015
2019
£105 per case of 12 ib OW Loeb
15

Dom Louis Michel, Vaudésir 2011 Chablis Grand Cru

You can already feel the extra weight in the glass! Relatively (which isn't saying much) rich on the nose though pretty restrained on the palate.
Drink
2017
2027
£290 per case of 12 ib OW Loeb
16.5

DOMAINE MICHELOT MÈRE ET FILLE


DOMAINE MILLET

Dom Millet 2011 Petit Chablis

Delicate lemon sorbet on the nose and light citrus on the palate but less fruit on the palate. Creamy finish contrasts with the tart acidity. (JH) 12%
Drink
2012
2013
£92 per case of 12 ib Montrachet
15.5

DOMAINE JEAN-MARC MILLOT

Dom Jean-Marc Millot, Grand Cru 2011 Échezeaux

Big and beefy. Broad with – most unusually – a hint of coffee and chocolate. Could be quite rewarding even if not ethereal. GV for the appellation.
Drink
2016
2025
£395 per case of 6 ib Armit, £375 per case of 6 ib Jeroboams
16.5

Dom Jean-Marc Millot, Grand Cru 2011 Échezeaux

Heady, rich, jewelly fruit though tad spindly as though the sorting was not 100% perfect. Denser than the other two reds but a little fragile.
Drink
2016
2028
£378 per case of 6 ib Lay & Wheeler
16

MISCHIEF AND MAYHEM


DOMAINE DE LA FAMILLE MOMMESSIN (CLOS DE TART)

Dom de la Famille Mommessin, Grand Cru 2011 Clos de Tart

Cuvée 1: 100% whole bunch. The high part, calcaire, very hard.
Very rich and gamey indeed. Sweet. Quite dramatic. Really rather flattering and lovely. 17.5 Drink 18-30
Cuvée 2: 50% whole bunch. From the middle high section of the vineyard, marnes.
Dense animal and much livelier than Cuvée 1. Lots of gas. Complete. 18 Drink 20-35
Cuvée 3: 100% whole bunch. Selection of typically sized Pinot bunches from all over the clos.
Broad, heady, sweet. But without much structure. 17 Drink 18-28
Cuvée 4: no whole bunch, middle low, calcaire huitres.
Very lively and fresh and racy but without as much depth as some. Sinewy – high or limestone? 17 Drink 17-25
Cuvée 5: no whole bunch, from the bottom of the clos, calcaire with small green fossils – little worms.
Intense, fine, complex though a little subdued. And angular. 17 Drink 17-25
Cuvée 6: vines 25 and 26 years old, 100% whole bunch.
A bit green and awkward. 17-
Cuvée 7: vines about 10 years old, zero whole bunch. 17
Cuvée 8: first press.
Great vivacity and life! Really spicy and fresh. 17+
Probable blend: Rather more serious than any of the components. Very mellow and rich with a gamey hint and dramatic with good structure but pretty accessible. Rewarding and spicy. Firm finish. Amiable. 
Drink
2020
2035
18

DOMAINE MONGEARD-MUGNERET


DOMAINE DE MONTILLE

Dom de Montille, Les Perrières Premier Cru 2011 Beaune

Healthy crimson. Good brisk richness. Pretty racy and fresh. Good energy – showing well at the Loeb tasting where reds have become a tad too warm. Dry finish but crunchy fruit.
Drink
2016
2024
£297 per case of 12 ib OW Loeb
16 +

Dom de Montille, Les Rugiens-Bas Premier Cru 2011 Pommard

A little bit of oak obvious on the nose. Lots of substance. Embryonic. Dry finish. Hints of tea leaves. Interesting. Less grainy tannins than many a serious Pommard.
Drink
2016
2025
£745 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks
16 ++

GILLES MORAT (DOMAINE CHATAIGNERAIE-LABORIER)


DAVID MORET

David Moret, Sous la Velle 2011 Meursault

Some cat pee Sauvignon character here – most unexpected! Why should that be? Very tropical fruit, and some vegetal character. Atypical for Meursault. (RH)
Drink
2014
2018
£TBC RRP (imported by Liberty)
16

David Moret, Les Narvaux 2011 Meursault

Bright apple fruit, a bit reductive and flinty, dense fruit core. Doesn’t have the fatness or cream of archetypal Meursault (a feature of the vintage or a style choice, I wonder?), but is impressive and heavyweight nonetheless. (RH)
Drink
2014
2020
£44.99 RRP (imported by Liberty)
16.5 +

David Moret, Charmes Premier Cru 2011 Meursault

Lovely purity and reductiveness combined on the nose. Peachy fruit. Masterful, exemplary – not at all blousy or loose. Excellent. (RH)
Drink
2014
2020
£61.99 RRP (imported by Liberty)
17 +

David Moret, Perrières Premier Cru 2011 Meursault

Very opulent apricot and tropical fruit – heading toward Mâcon in style. I prefer the build and less opulent charm of their Genevrières. (RH)
Drink
2014
2022
£72.99 RRP (imported by Liberty)
17

DOMAINE BERNARD MOREAU

Dom Bernard Moreau et Fils 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet

Something just faintly old-fashioned about the nose of this (a tad more sulphur than some perhaps?) but solid and satisfying. Bright fruit and a chalky finish with good ample fruit on the mid palate.
Drink
2015
2018
£240 per case of 12 ib Flint
16

Dom Bernard Moreau et Fils, Sous Roche Dumay Premier Cru 2011 St-Aubin

Formerly Sur Gamay. This is the first vintage with the new vineyard name (Sur Gamay was deemed too confusing).
Lightly vegy/cheesy on the nose. Quite racy and very lively. Good balance. Should be rewarding. Good combination of freshness and weight.
Drink
2014
2018
£225 per case of 12 ib Flint
16.5

DOMAINE CHRISTIAN MOREAU PÈRE ET FILS

Dom Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Valmur 2011 Chablis Grand Cru

Intense fruit, very hard edged. Impressive in an aggressive style, but doesn’t seem to have the pleasure and flex that Chablis should have. (RH)
Drink
2014
2020
£240 per case of 12 ib Bordeaux Index, £250 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
16.5

Dom Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Valmur 2011 Chablis Grand Cru

Tank sample. Tight, minerally nose. Still pretty chewy. Should eventually reveal itself. Good purity but a tiny bit short.
Drink
2015
2024
£240 per case of 12 ib Bordeaux Index, £250 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark, £280 per case of 12 ib Jeroboams
16.5 +

Dom Christian Moreau Père et Fils, Les Clos 2011 Chablis Grand Cru

From a small proportion that is already bottled. Dense yet racy with lovely drive even if not the most concentrated Clos ever. Well judged and extremely appetising.
Drink
2015
2027
£250 per case of 12 ib Bordeaux Index, £260 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark, £290 per case of 12 ib Jeroboams
17

DAVID MOREAU

David Moreau, Cuvée S 2011 Santenay

First vines owned by his grandfather. Rich fruit for a Santenay. Lots of effort here and very flattering if you like your burgundy concentrated. Slightly brutal but no shortage of impact.

Drink
2014
2020
£156 per case of 12 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
16

DOMAINE LOUIS MOREAU

Dom Louis Moreau, Blanchot 2011 Chablis Grand Cru

Interesting – some skin contact here, surely? Has a slightly oxidative, phenolic tone to the fruit – not in a faulty way, though. Rather lovely, actually – but perhaps not for the long ageing. (RH)
Drink
2013
2020
17

Dom Louis Moreau, Vaudésir 2011 Chablis Grand Cru

Phenolic and pithy again, like the Blanchot. Quite stylised for Chablis – partly ‘naturalistic’, partly oxidative! It works though, and there's a bit of oak in the mix too. Not archetypal Chablis, but still impressive. (RH)
Drink
2013
2022
17

DOMAINE MOREAU-NAUDET

Dom Moreau-Naudet 2011 Petit Chablis

Must be one of the very cheapest wines to be presented en primeur this month! Actually it does taste like Chablis and is as good and representative as many a Chablis from a more mass-market source. GV
Drink
2013
2015
£75 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
15.5

Dom Moreau-Naudet 2011 Chablis

Smoky and attention grabbing. Lots of energy and drive but accessible already. VGV
Drink
2013
2017
£85 per case of 12 ib OW Loeb
16

CAROLINE MOREY

Caroline Morey, Les Champlots Premier Cru 2011 St-Aubin

Relatively open, herbal nose. Then rather severe on the palate. A little solid and chewy – without the soaring intensity of most of her husband Pierre-Yves Colin's wines. Decent though.
Drink
2014
2018
£215 per case of 12 ib Flint
16

DOMAINE MARC MOREY

Dom Marc Morey 2011 Bourgogne

Good price for a classic wine. Solid and very dry and savoury.
Drink
2014
2017
£120 per case of 12 ib Armit
16

DOMAINE VINCENT & SOPHIE MOREY

Dom Vincent & Sophie Morey 2011 Bourgogne

Slightly offputting initial aroma – a touch of rubbery/garlic reduction but some SO2 as well, though presumably the latter will dissipate. Really quite reduced at the moment and not much pleasure. Hard to tell how it will come round. (JH)
Drink
2014
2017
£95 per case of 12 ib Genesis
14.5

Dom Vincent & Sophie Morey, Passetemps Premier Cru 2011 Santenay

So different from the Bourgogne Chardonnay: slight smoky reduction but much more attractive. Some struck-match flavour and bright citrus fruit behind that. And a light cast of oak, all in harmony. (JH)
Drink
2014
2018
£205 per case of 12 ib Genesis
16.5

Dom Vincent & Sophie Morey, Vieilles Vignes 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet

Has some of the garlic-like aroma of reduction at first but only very slight, and then on the palate it is tight and pure and long. Still a little reductive but so much cleaner and brighter. Needs a couple of years in bottle. (JH)
Drink
2015
2019
£230 per case of 12 ib Genesis
16.5 +

Dom Vincent & Sophie Morey, Cailleret Premier Cru 2011 Chassagne-Montrachet

Very slightly reductive (rubbery) but not too much at this stage. Tight, dense lemon and lime. Pushes through to a long finish – very embryonic so not that much pleasure at the moment but plenty to come. Needs more patience than many in this vintage. (JH)
Drink
2016
2021
£420 per case of 12 ib Genesis
17

DOMAINE DENIS MORTET

Dom Denis Mortet 2011 Bourgogne

Lots there. A real mouthful of interest. Bravo!
Drink
2014
2017
£150 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks, £75 per case of 6 ib Jeroboams
16

Dom Denis Mortet, Champs Pennebaut 2011 Fixin

Fruity and full of life. Yet more evidence of exciting life at the northern end of the Côte d'Or! Well done.
Drink
2015
2021
£305 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks
16 +

Dom Denis Mortet 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin

Quite a price for a village wine! Dense, concentrated, sweet and sort of biodynamic. (Wild and all that – but actually he is no more than lutte raisonnée). Dry finish but not painful.
Drink
2016
2024
£425 per case of 12 ib Justerini & Brooks, £205 per case of 6 ib Jeroboams
16 +

DOMAINE THIERRY MORTET

Dom Thierry Mortet, Les Charmes de Daix 2011 Bourgogne

Good fruity stuff. Absolutely not an ounce of complication or nuance but not encumbered by too much oak and a very charming introduction to red burgundy. GV
Drink
2013
2016
£111 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
16

Dom Thierry Mortet, Vigne Belle 2011 Gevrey-Chambertin

Quite resounding fruit on the nose. A good effort though still relatively simple. Very straightforward with fruit the dominant note. Relatively lightweight but pure and 2011ish.
Drink
2016
2024
£282 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman
16 +

DOMAINE LAURENT MOUTON


DOMAINE MUGNERET-GIBOURG


DOMAINE J F MUGNIER

Dom J F Mugnier 2011 Chambolle-Musigny

Pale bright crimson. Very pure and clean and direct. Sings straight at the eyeballs! Lovely purity. What more do you want? Enormous pleasure. Not enormous depth but lovely early maturing top-quality village burgundy. GV?
Drink
2014
2020
17

Dom J F Mugnier, Les Fuées Premier Cru 2011 Chambolle-Musigny

A fué may be a unit of area – maybe. Less perfumed than the village wine. The only wine to have been racked, which is why it may be less expressive. Lovely clarity of fruit and freshness but it’s pretty uncommunicative on the nose at the moment. Very refined. Fine undertow of ripe fruit. Only mid weight but beautiful balance.
Drink
2016
2030
17

Dom J F Mugnier, Clos de la Maréchale Premier Cru 2011 Nuits-St-Georges

130 pièces! 40,000 bottles. Assemblage of the eight cuvees. Probably no Forges in 2011.
Firm and fine – quite assertive. Racy and a little richer than the average Nuits but more like Nuits than some earlier vintages to me. Very dry on the end, real texture. Lifted.
Drink
2016
2028
£225 per case of 6 ib Howard Ripley, £445 per case of 12 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
16.5

Dom J F Mugnier, Grand Cru 2011 Musigny

Some vines planted in 1940s, and others between 1958-1963.
A little darker than the rest. Gamey nose (nothing to do with reduction). Juice and freshness and intensity and real life and savour. Quite firm fine tannins underneath but masses of mind-blowing elegant fruit. Sinewy. All in the same register as the village wine. A gold-standard wine. But some will find it tight at this stage.
Drink
2022
2040
19

Dom J F Mugnier, Grand Cru 2011 Bonnes Mares

In middle of the vineyard. Terres rouges and blanches. Small parcel so assembled from the start. Fred thinks that inside each climat the magic is to have big diversity which makes the wine complex, rich and well balanced. Separating the soils seems erroneous to him.
A more fragrant, feminine style of Bonnes Mares than say Roumier’s. Transparent and aerienne. Very distinctive! Pretty. But not solid. Very racy. Very refined. Very Chambolle.
Drink
2017
2032
18

DOMAINE MICHEL NIELLON


DOMAINE NINOT, LE MEIX GUILLAUME

Dom Ninot, Vieilles Vignes 2011 Rully

Leesy, stony lemon aroma. Slight but not thin. Delicate and refreshing. And longer than I expected. Actually rather refined and, for my taste, better value than the Grésigny. (JH)
Drink
2014
2017
£95 per case of 12 ib Genesis
16.5

Dom Ninot, Grésigny Premier Cru 2011 Rully

Slightly broader and fuller in the mouth than the Vieilles Vignes but not necessarily more pleasure. Crisp and tight and zesty on the finish. (JH)
Drink
2014
2017
£120 per case of 12 ib Genesis
16

GEORGES NOËLLAT

Georges Noëllat 2011 Bourgogne

From between Nuits and Vosne. Very pale. Quite light but jewelly and confident. Fresh and transparent. Dry finish. VGV
Drink
2013
2016
£125 per case of 12 ib Flint
16

NUITON-BEAUNOY

Nuiton-Beaunoy 2011 Beaune

Pale ruby. Gentle hint of red fruit. Light, soft, dull. (JH)
Drink
2014
2016
£137 per case of 12 ib Montrachet
15

Nuiton-Beaunoy 2011 Volnay

Lacks fruit in the middle, giving a dry finish. Slightly better balance than the Beaune. (JH)
Drink
2014
2017
£182 per case of 12 ib Montrachet
15.5