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Burgundy 2015 – Ca-Ci

Saturday 7 January 2017
Image

See this guide to our extensive coverage of Burgundy 2015. Our picture is of the energetic, ever-expanding François Carillon of Puligny-Montrachet. 

Now that the wines have been sorted into groups by producer, you can sort the wines within those groups by score or appellation.


DOMAINE JACQUES CACHEUX ET FILS

Red

Cask sample. Feral nose with a touch of overripeness and farmyard about it. There’s very lovely fruit, too – rhubarb and sour cherry – but that funky aroma returns on the palate. Rather too much of a risk. (RH)

Drink: 2017 – 2023
Price: £350 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
Red

Cask sample. Wonderful spicy aromas, plus smoked almond, dark chocolate and rich, sumptuous cherry fruit. Immense fragrance on the finish. The oak is in the ascendancy right now, but it definitely has the fruit power to last. (RH)

Drink: 2020 – 2045
Price: £965 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

DOMAINE CAPUANO-FERRERI

White

Spicy and a touch oaky on the nose. Creamy texture but not a lot of depth on the mid palate. (JH)

Drink: 2017 – 2020
Price: £28.50 Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
White

Limey on the nose, less oak in evidence in the aroma than on the Santenay Blanc, then it shows more on the palate. Creamy, soft, a bit slight but harmonious. (JH)

Drink: 2017 – 2020
Price: £40 Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
White

Very stony and a little austere on the nose. Just a slight leesy creaminess. And a creamy intensity on the palate, rounded but with a bright freshness taking it to a long finish. Very moreish. (JH)

Drink: 2018 – 2025
Price: £41.25 Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
White

Super-creamy aroma – inviting and rich. Quite definite oak on the palate but not too much for the citrus fruit. Well balanced, not particularly intense but lasts well across the palate. Creamy oak finish. (JH)

Drink: 2018 – 2025
Price: £49.50 Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
Red

Mid cherry. Spicy red fruit, really fruity. Then quite solid in the middle. Reliable and balanced but hard to get excited. Just slightly al dente in the tannin texture but the tannins would disappear with food .(JH)

Drink: 2018 – 2023
Price: £30.50 Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
Red

Mid crimson. Sweetness of fruit and light oak spice. Dry, fine tannins, juicy and mouth-watering, more length than depth but satisfying in its harmony. Just the right side of tart on the finish. (JH)

Drink: 2018 – 2025
Price: £30.50 Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
Red

Light to mid crimson. Lively fruit, a touch peppery. Juicy, fresh, relatively light and quite soft even now. (JH)

Drink: 2017 – 2021
Price: £35.50 Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
Red

Mid to light cherry red. Fine boned but not a great depth of fruit in the middle. A bit insubstantial but even so has unexpected persistence.

Drink: 2018 – 2024
Price: £38.25 Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies

FRANÇOIS CARILLON
Pictured above. 2015s were a bit soft and disappointing. He admitted they looked a bit rich and explained he decided to take the lees-contact not acidification route.

White

Cask sample. Old vines. Good richness on the nose. Marked grip and acid on the palate. Lots to chew on. (JR)

Drink: 2017 – 2020
White

Cask sample. Pear juice and a touch of oak still. Pretty stodgy and workmanlike – I wonder if this cuvée has been denuded by the existence of the new Bourgogne, Le Vieux Clos? Sweet finish. (JR)

Drink: 2018 – 2020
White

Cask sample. A richer cuvée for top restaurants, from round Puligny.
More concentration and vitality than the regular Bourgogne Chardonnay. Good drink! (JR)

Drink: 2017 – 2021
White

Cask sample. 4.5 ha in several different lieux-dits: Derrière La Velle, Les Reuchaux, Corvée des Vignes, La Rousselle, Noyer Bret, Les Aubues, Les Tremblots.
Sweeter on the nose than many – generous and flattering! Then good structure and freshness on the palate. Quite substantial. 35,000 bottles and well done. Should be relatively GV. (JR)

Drink: 2018 – 2023
White

Cask sample. Sweet, friendly juice on the nose. But a little diffuse on the end. Lacks real tension. Some light astringency on the end. (JR)

Drink: 2018 – 2022
White

Cask sample. New vineyard for Carillon that needs a bit of work.
Low-key nose. Medium weight and fairly light concentration. For the moment the village wine is more expressive. Chewy end. Not that expressive. (JR)

Drink: 2019 – 2023
White

Cask sample. 0.5 ha next to Coche. Hard to work soil – almost like concrete. Tête d’Aigilles was affected by millerandage. Mainly 50-year-old vines.
Dense, quite rich at frst and then with fine precision and some lemon and lift. A satisfying combination! With some stoniness on the end. Lots to chew on. (JR)

Drink: 2020 – 2027
White

Cask sample. Rich and nervy and full of lightly rustic fruit. Grainy finish but real pzazz here! (JR)

Drink: 2020 – 2026
White

Cask sample. Next to Chassagne. Lots of pebbles.
Greenish tinge. Not much nose and rather heavy on the palate. Solid without the race of some François Carillon vintages. (JR)

Drink: 2018 – 2023
White

Cask sample. 0.7 ha, very calcareous.
Hint of oak on the nose and much more racy acidity than on the Charmois. Lean and lively with lots of stoniness on the end. (JR)

Drink: 2019 – 2025
White

Cask sample. 1.5 ha on white stones with very poor soils.
Big and bold on the nose with this pear-juice character that seems prevalent in his 2015s. Some raciness but a tad stolid. Not that long on the finish. (JR)

Drink: 2020 – 2026
White

Cask sample. Bought recently. Red soils that are pretty powerful with big stones. Worked by horse in some years but not in 2015. 25% slope.
Lean and fine in terms of build. Not too fat! Sleek and a bit of a ballet dancer. Floral hints. Lots of juice. (JR)

Drink: 2020 – 2028
White

Cask sample. Big and dense. Could do with a little more lift and acidity. Just a little earthbound. Lots to chew on. Quite long. (JR)

Drink: 2020 – 2027
White

Cask sample. 12% new oak.
Big with good concentration. And good freshness. Though not outstanding. Just a tiny bit soft. But good persistence. (JR)

Drink: 2021 – 2028
White

Cask sample. Young vines – planted 2004, mass selection. Mixed red and white soils. Just 10% max new oak.
Good attack. Precise and racy start though not that much concentration on the palate. Falls away a bit on the end. (JR)

Drink: 2019 – 2024
White

Cask sample. Some green fruit on the nose. Lots of freshness but with some sweet fruit underneath. A little light chewiness. Well constituted. (JR)

Drink: 2020 – 2025
White

Cask sample. 0.46 ha. Second-use barrels.
Pale straw. Not that much on the nose. Not immediately clear that this is a grand cru. Medium body and not that expressive at the moment. Lightish and lemony but without real lift. Some chalky texture on the end suggests some distinction but overall a bit of a disappointment. (JR)

Drink: 2022 – 2030

DOMAINE JACQUES CARILLON
Frère Jacques seems to have the edge, quite literally, in 2015.

White

Excitingly nervy and transparent. Fresh, long finish. (JR)

Drink: 2018 – 2024
POA per case of 12 ib Goedhuis & Co
White

Dry, restrained citrus fruit, chewy palate and a slaty mineral note on the finish. Quite plump and fleshy. (RH)

Drink: 2017 – 2021
Price: £365 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
White

Broad and rich. (JR)

Drink: 2020 – 2026
POA per case of 6 ib Goedhuis & Co

DOMAINE CASTAGNIER

Red

Heady, concentrated with firm tannins. Rather like a Chambolle distillate. Chewy finish at this stage but not expensive... (JR)

Drink: 2025 – 2037
Price: £168 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd
Red

Unusually, this sample seemed a little tired. Dry finish and not enough follow-through. I have scored it but no great weight should be attached to my score. (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2040
Price: £465 per case of 6 ib Berry Bros & Rudd

DOMAINE SYLVAIN CATHIARD...

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