See the full guide to our coverage of Burgundy's 2016 vintage.
DOMAINE ARNAUD ENTE, Meursault
JR: Arnaud Ente’s whites seemed bit more friendly on the nose than of old, without losing the old tension on the palate. Starting 14 September, he was one of the first to pick in 2016. His reds suddenly seemed much more appealing than in previous vintages – perhaps thanks to whole-bunch fermentation? Organic certification has recently been confirmed.
Planted in 1938.
Creamy and rich on the nose. So broad and satisfying. Lots of excitement.
This comes from two vineyards in Puligny and one in Meursault. More Puligny because the yields are higher there.
Not much nose but excellent tension and passion-fruit acidity on the palate. Long and tingling. Very suave indeed. So clean and refreshing.
Quite golden and rich on the nose then very precise and crystalline. More open and fruitier than some recent vintages. Very charming and relatively open. Clean and exciting but not that long.
This is a selection from En l’Ormeau.
Lightly smoky/struck-match nose. Very solid and more approachable than in some years. Big and bold. Almost daring you to drink it. Massive shoulders and muscle!
This parcel is by Les Grands Charrons and Les Chevalières lieux-dits. Just 60 magnums made.
Rich, fruity nose! Rather more traditional Meursault-like than previous vintages. Hint of putty. Then the tension comes on the palate, a real drawstring! Exciting with lime and minerals and just the right amount of fruit for the massive acidity.
A selection from En l’Ormeau. Average yield under 30 hl/ha and the total quantity keeps reducing. 2016 suffered from frost. Usually only 500 litres made – just 400 litres in 2016.
Breadth, smoke and green veg on the nose. Big and round on the palate. Very rich and big and beefy. Not quite as opulent as I remember but with lots of drama. Rich start and then a little chunky. Perhaps it’s just too youthful at the moment? No great follow-through.
Very rich and round and satin-textured. Then fantastic tension and construction – like the most luxurious lemon juice you could imagine, with real richness too. Very slightly reductive at the moment and with real creaminess of texture. Appetising. Long.
0.22 ha. Very charming and beautifully balanced. Rich and flattering. But with great precision and quite evolved and forward. Great balance. Lots of mineral undertow.
2014 was the first vintage. Vines were worked by his younger brother Benoît Ente.
Broad and appealing on the nose. Very solid and mouth-filling but without the early charm of Les Referts. Still a bit angular. Very clean.
10- and 40-year-old vines. Some in Puligny but more in Meursault from 2014.
Very voluptuous on the nose. Pungent. Very fresh and lively and then fairly light bodied and with quite a bit of acidity but very pure and definitely worth looking out for. GV?
40% whole bunch.
Similar pungent note of reduction on the nose as on the Bourgogne Rouge. Lively and dry raspberry. Slightly like an amphora wine. More body than the Bourgogne Rouge. Very appetising and with finesse. Long and grainy and very 21st (or do I mean 19th?) century.
DOMAINE FRÉDÉRIC ESMONIN, Gevrey-Chambertin
Bottled. Mid crimson. Lots of sweet oak spice on the nose over dark Gevrey fruit but on the palate the oak is well covered by the fruit. Juicy, dark-fruited and full of life, not dulled by the oak even though it is quite present for now. A little charry on the finish but very fresh and lingering. Tannins are finely textured and in harmony with the fruit. (JH)
Bottled. Mid crimson. A little more red-fruited than the Clos Prieur and less immediately oaky, though there is some oak sweetness. That dark, charry quality on the palate but a lovely core of fruit to fill out the youthful framework and the definite tannins. Some chocolate on the finish and yet still supple and fresh. (JH)
Bottled. Mid crimson. A little less expressive than the Estournelles St-Jacques, more reserved. But there’s plenty of oak sweetness entwined with the lightly charry dark fruit. A clear house style. There’s also an attractive lightly dusty note on the nose. On the palate, there’s depth to the tannins but they are already incredibly smooth with a mild grip. The fruit is dark and withheld but all there for a more expressive future. (JH)
SYLVIE ESMONIN, Gevrey-Chambertin
JR: Well-defined wines that clearly express their origins. And she is, finally, on email!
Two parcels in Brochon. 30% whole bunch. Not chaptalised. Tank sample.
Deep crimson. Rich and round but just lacks a little freshness and structure. Solid and a tad rustic.
30-year-old vines deemed young(!). On pebbles so finesse has rather than structure. 30% whole bunch. Tank sample.
Deep crimson. Rich and heady perfume. Very flattering and sumptuous. Good acidity and drive. Lots to like!
Vines 60+ years old though some vines have been replaced. Tank sample.
Very deep purple. Extremely rich and spicy nose. Good freshness and definition. Definitely more complex than most village Gevreys! Juicy start and then lots of framework.
Tank sample. A bit reduced. Juicy and fine and very much of the vineyard. A super-cool customer. Lots to chew on but lovely silky fruit. Lots of intrigue underneath.
DOMAINE D'EUGÉNIE, Vosne-Romanée...