Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Burgundy 2016 – L

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See the full guide to our coverage of Burgundy's 2016 vintage. 


DOMAINE PIERRE LABET, Clos de Vougeot

White

Organic. Tank sample.
So creamy there is almost a caramel sweetness on the nose but it’s balance by tart citrus freshness. Generous and creamy on the palate. Of course it is dry but in the context of burgundy it has a sweet generosity in the mouth and some oak spice on the finish. Lots of pleasure. (JH)

Drink: 2019 – 2024
Price: £TBC Corney & Barrow
White

Organic. Tank sample.
Creamy and spicy like the Bourgogne Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes but the oak has given this a more savoury cast. Deep and rich and rounded, yet still fresh. Chewy, long finish. Might be good value but the price has not been confirmed. (JH)

Drink: 2020 – 2026
Price: £TBC Corney & Barrow
Red

Organic. Cask sample.
Lightish cherry red. Pretty, floral, gently herbal and very inviting. Spicy on the tongue, lightish but really well modulated. (JH)

Drink: 2020 – 2026
Price: £TBC Corney & Barrow
Red

Organic. Cask sample.
Lightish cherry red. Smells sweeter and riper than the Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes but also a notable stemmy character. That stemmy character on the palate too, giving dry (not drying) texture. A more austere style but in balance in that style. (JH)

Drink: 2021 – 2028
Price: £TBC Corney & Barrow
Red

Organic. Cask sample.
Mid cherry red. Smells much riper than the Clos du Dessus des Marconnets. Lovely red-cherry sweetness. Delicate and scented on the palate. As with the other Labet wines, the tannins are fine and dry but here the fruit seems more generous and thus the whole is more persistent and complete at this stage.(JH

Drink: 2021 – 2030
Price: £TBC Corney & Barrow
Red

Organic. Cask sample.
Mid cherry red. Sweetly oaky on the nose. Darker fruited than the Beaune wines, not surprisingly. Sturdy, compact tannins. Less charm, more muscle and ready for the long term. (JH)

Drink: 2024 – 2034
Price: £TBC Corney & Barrow

DOMAINE LABRUYÈRE, Romanèche-Thorins

Red

Barrel sample. Mid cherry red. Juicy Gamay fruit. Lively and spiced on the palate, supple tannins, very drinkable but should age better than many Bourgogne Pinots with quite definite but fine tannins. (JH)

Drink: 2019 – 2024
Red

Barrel sample. Mid crimson. Peppery and dark-fruited with a light rocky/mineral note. Dry and savoury on the palate, a lovely refined darkness but not lacking fruit. Classic Moulin-à-Vent with tannic finesse and firmness, well balanced for ageing. Dry, chalky finish. Elegant. (JH)

Drink: 2020 – 2028
Price: £TBC Corney & Barrow
Red

Barrel sample. Deep crimson. Not very expressive now, just dark and rocky and invitingly so. Tantalising. Savoury and rocky dark fruit, has fruit to balance but not to shout at you. This is really elegant and the opposite of showy. Super-refined. (JH)

Drink: 2021 – 2030
Price: £TBC Corney & Barrow
Red

Monopole. Barrel sample.
Deep cherry red. Smells very different from Le Carquelin, more meaty but still that dark, rocky minerality. Bone dry, chalky. Refined texture, almost chalky but more like layers of paper. A long, dark, savoury finish. Needs time. (JH)

Drink: 2024 – 2030
Price: £TBC Corney & Barrow

DOMAINE MICHEL LAFARGE, Volnay and DOMAINE LAFARGE VIAL, Fleurie 
JR: Lovely stuff as always plus four Beaujolais crus. We were shown the amazing traditional wicker giant disc used for gentle destemming (see photo below). Frédéric and Chantal’s daughter Clothilde has been working for Larry Stone at Lingua Franca in Oregon, after Seresin in Marlborough. They were looking forward to her imminent return.

White

Big, round, almost oily! A candied floral note – something a little like the sucrose of Edinburgh rock. Extraordinarily ripe and low acid for an Aligoté! (JR)

Drink: 2018 – 2020
White

900 bottles from one hectare.
Spicy nose. Intense concentration and still quite chewy. Sweeter than many but with lots of charm. (JR)

Drink: 2019 – 2024
White

Stones and energy and raciness. Lots of concentration and drive. Very good year for this. (JR)

Drink: 2020 – 2027
Red

Quite chewy and energetic. Still quite youthful – difficult to taste straight after Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs! (JR)

Drink: 2019 – 2022
Red

Bottled. Light to mid crimson. Pretty dark-red fruit. Peppery. Tight, juicy and even more peppery on the palate. Bone dry but somehow juicy too. Delicate but persistent. (JH)

Drink: 2020 – 2024
Price: £245 per case of 12 ib Corney & Barrow
Red

Lieu-dit with steep slope.
Very polished and complex and appetising. (JR)

Drink: 2018 – 2023
Red

Bottled. More dusty, even a little stemmy (whole bunch?). Tight, almost eye-watering freshness, perhaps just a little severe? Long, leafy finish. (JH)

Drink: 2019 – 2025
Price: £275 per case of 12 ib Corney & Barrow
Red

On granite and quartz.
Peppery nose. Real drive and energy. Lots of juice and minerality. Not yet ready. (JR)

Drink: 2020 – 2024
Red

Rented 50-year-old vines on granite with blue in the soil.
Polished. Fruit and grace. Fairly approachable. (JR)

Drink: 2019 – 2025
Red

Bottled. Bright cherry red. Fairly quiet on the nose. Subtle dark-red fruit. Peppery, dusty, pure and dry but those dry tannins are matched by elegant dark fruit. Long and very young. (JH)

Drink: 2020 – 2026
Price: £285 per case of 12 ib Corney & Barrow
Red

One gravelly ha on the border of Meursault. Very suitable for co-planted Gamay and Pinot.
Very youthful and unformed. Lots of acidity and graininess. Very energetic and spicy. Firm finish. GV

? (JR)

Drink: 2019 – 2023
Red

Located between the RN74 and Volnay vineyards – an especially good strip for Bourgogne.
The perfume is very intense. Fred thinks this wine expressed the joyful nature of the vintage particularly well. Very strong, fruity raspberry juice. Very playful and pleasing. Long with lovely balance. (JR)

Drink: 2019 – 2023
Red

Just one cuvée of Volnay, as in 2012.
Mossy notes on the nose and then very polished fruit on the palate. Chewy and with real energy. Lots of fine tannin and earthy terroir-informed fruit. Tension and sculpted texture. Lip-smacking. (JR)

Drink: 2021 – 2030
Red

Lively and fairly light-bodied but with masses of charm. Purple fruit and very fine. A ballet dancer of a wine. This wine soars! Peacock’s tail – this wine goes on and on. (JR)

Drink: 2023 – 2032
Red

95-year-old vines – their oldest. A quarter has been pulled out because of the effects of the 2012 hail and planted with mass selection from the domaine. They will blend the two eventually.
Lots of grunt and depth. Really very special and deeply flavoured. Very smart. A major part of the renaissance of Beaune! (JR)

Drink: 2025 – 2040
Red

Started in 2015; before it was an ingredient in Volnay premier cru. Just one pièce (three in 2017). Pebbly clay.
Lots of crunchy fruit with masses of acidity. Real intensity and depth. Very long indeed. (JR)

Drink: 2024 – 2038
Red

Meaty nose and round, charming texture with violet perfume. Very engaging and typically Volnay with its relatively light body and perfume. Firm finish promises well for the future. Long. (JR)

Drink: 2024 – 2040
Red

Red soils over calcaire for minerality.
Lighter nose than the Mitans. Very ethereal on the nose and almost easy to overlook on the palate. Bit of a dark horse. Very ‘mineral’ on the finish. (JR)

Drink: 2024 – 2040
Red

Deep gravel on top of calcaire. Protected from frost. Harvested with grandfather Michel and daughter Clothilde, to remind grandpa Michel of the old ways. They destemmed by hand on a round wicker grid (claie d’égrappage).
Rich and heady. Beautiful. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2042
Red

In the middle of the vineyard – just 0.15 ha on dolomite calcaire. Just one 300-litre cask made.
Pale purplish crimson. Sweet and fresh and smells much more delicate than a stereotypical Pommard. Very sweet and gorgeous with beautifully managed tannins. Most unusual and very vibrant. (JR)

Drink: 2022 – 2034
Red

Almost 1 ha (16 ha in total). Red and much shallower soils above the calcaire.
Broad and juicy on the nose. Still evolving but with wonderfully smooth texture and a real line. Still quite raw fruit. (JR)

Drink: 2027 – 2044

DOMINIQUE LAFON, Meursault (see Burgundy 2016 Cl-Cy for DOMAINE DES COMTES LAFON and LES HÉRITIERS DU COMTE LAFON)...

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