Volcanic Wine Awards | The Jancis Robinson Story

Burgundy 2018 – Ma–Me

Monday 30 December 2019
Freddy Meuneveaux

For the rest of these alphabetically grouped tasting articles, and more general articles on Burgundy 2018, see our guide. Our picture shows Freddy Meuneveaux of Domaine Meuneveaux in Aloxe-Corton.

The wines are grouped alphabetically by producer (sur)name and within those groups are ordered whites before reds, ascending from generic through village, premiers and grands crus. You can change the order as you prefer using the menu below.

Domaine Henri Magnien (Gevrey-Chambertin)

Red

Bottled – they felt the wines were ready and did not want to lose freshness.
Mid crimson. Ripe but fresh dark-red fruit. Juicy, generous, mouth-filling fruit. Lots of fruity pleasure and deft, smooth tannins that are just slightly chewy on the finish. (JH)

Drink: 2021 – 2026
Price: £180 per case of 12 ib Stannary St Wine Co
Red

Bottled. Darker-fruited and a little less open than the Bourgogne. More peppery and spicy, very Gevrey. Fine, dry, structuring tannins. A baby in balance. (JH)

Drink: 2024 – 2030
Price: £210 per case of 6 ib Stannary St Wine Co
Red

15% whole bunch. Bottled.
Lovely fragrance of pure dark-red fruit and the freshness of light-handed use of stems. Lively, juicy and open with elegant tannins. Should be accessible early and age well. (JH)

Drink: 2023 – 2030
Price: £235 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Bottled. Smells a little sweeter-fruited than the Gevrey Estournelles St-Jacques. Even a hint of something floral/leafy though it is fully ripe. Firm but juicy without quite the intensity of the Estournelles St-Jacques. Smoother and softer overall. (JH)

Drink: 2024 – 2029
Price: £395 per case of 6 ib Stannary St Wine Co
Red

15% whole bunch. Bottled.
Pretty on the nose – the aroma takes me more to Morey than Gevrey but it is darker and more spicy on the palate. Elegant, refined, already married and surprisingly accessible. Moderate length but very elegant. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2032
Price: £345 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

Bottled. Deepish crimson. Dark and serious, lovely fruit, restrained, fine-boned. Great length. The opposite of showy and all the better for it. So much more complexity to come and should have a long life. (JH)

Drink: 2026 – 2036
Price: £375 per case of 6 ib Stannary St Wine Co
Red

20% whole bunch. Bottled.
Peppery and fragrant, seductive in an elegant, shy way. Moreish and succulent on the palate, tannins as fine as layers of paper. Elegant and long. (JH)

Drink: 2025 – 2038
Price: £685 per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark
Red

First vintage – a new parcel for them. Bottled – they bottled early because the wines were ready.
Deep cherry red. Intense aroma of extremely pure fruit, ripe but not at all overripe. Firm, deep and chewy on the palate. Compact, polished tannins. Perfect harmony in a baby wine with a long life ahead. (JH)

Drink: 2028 – 2040
Price: £TBC per case of 6 ib Haynes Hanson & Clark

Domaine Michel Magnien (Morey-St-Denis)

Red

Cask sample. Fleshy, attractive fruit that is really quite intense and layered. The oak still dominating but has lots of fruit and earthy notes. Perhaps lacking just a touch of acidity but lots going on here. (AC)

Drink: 2024 – 2032
Price: £293 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
Red

Cask sample. Ferrous and earthy with lots of iodine and firm tannins. Well put together yet very tight and introverted at the moment. (AC)

Drink: 2025 – 2028
Price: £383 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants
Red

Cask sample. Lots of freshness and vibrancy here – really attractive with tannins that are tight but very compact. Fresh and showing a real directness to the wine, linear yet surrounded by a core of dense succulent fruit. (AC)

Drink: 2025 – 2038
Price: £1,293 per case of 12 ib Montrachet Fine Wine Merchants

Domaine Stéphane Magnien (Morey-St-Denis)

Red

Cask sample. Bright crimson. Rich and intense on the nose. Rather aggressive structure on the palate. Damson, slightly raw fruit. Needs a lot of time to settle down. (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2042
Price: £310 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman, £156 per case of 6 ib Lay & Wheeler
Red

Cask sample. Very introvert nose and then very sweet palate. Pretty flashy. Probably worth looking at after a while but the Moreys tasted today from this domaine are very embryonic. (JR)

Drink: 2030 – 2047
Price: £530 per case of 12 ib Lea & Sandeman, £270 per case of 6 ib Lay & Wheeler
Red

Ripe and slightly meaty on the nose, not scented like classic Chambolle though it has retained a slight floral note. Firm, dense, fresh enough but a bit heavy on its feet at this level of ripeness. Plenty of fruit all the same. Not Chambolle enough for me in this vintage. (JH)

Drink: 2022 – 2027
Price: £285 per case of 6 ib Stannary St Wine Co

Domaine des Malandes (Chablis)

White

Pithy lemons and apple skins on the nose. Chalky and mineral on the palate, fresh zippy and zesty with greengage. (TP)

Drink: 2020 – 2024
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
White

Lightly cheesy on the nose – mineral. Clean-cut and vibrant on the palate, very lithe and lifted. Good vibrancy for the vintage and a good example of village Chablis. (TP)

Drink: 2020 – 2025
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
White

Pithy with lemons – stony and subtle. Fresh and clean, green fruits to the fore with just a little hit of flinty smoke. Refreshing, good depth on the finish. (TP)

Drink: 2020 – 2025
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
White

Subtle and savoury nose. Tense entry, acids and stones. Builds in citrus and just a hint of white peach. Elegant, refined and moreish. Real typicality. (TP)

Drink: 2020 – 2028
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
White

Buttermilk and preserved lemons on the nose. More weight than the Côte de Léchet. Still has zesty acidity. Builds through to quite a salivating yet ripe finish. (TP)

Drink: 2020 – 2028
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
White

Struck flint and white peach on the nose. Bursting with lemon juice on the palate, but there is also chalky texture. Retains its elegance and drive with acidity. Tangy on the finish. (TP)

Drink: 2020 – 2028
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
White

A little sweet spice on the nose with ripe green fruits – lime and greengage. Mirabelle plum, juicy yet compact on the palate. Tension builds with acidity but there is a building lactic creaminess too. (TP)

Drink: 2020 – 2028
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
White

Bottled mid December.
Perfumed, with floral undertones to the ripe citrus at the core. Mineral smokiness, a little creamy stone fruit and zesty acidity. Tight on the finish and a little smoky. Needs time. (TP)

Drink: 2022 – 2030
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
White

Savoury nose. Smoky, rich and dense on the palate. A real depth of fruit, building with green apple, yellow fruit and ripe pear. The creaminess towards the finish adds generosity and length. Supple, savoury and fine. (TP)

Drink: 2022 – 2032
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies

Domaine des Marrans (Fleurie)

Red

Very pale colour. Delicate nose. Fine, delicate fruit. Fresh but a little dilute. (TP)

Drink: 2020 – 2024
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
Red

Bright ruby purple. A little hedgerow intermingled with ripe strawberry. Squeaky clean and ethereal fruit. Very floral. Light on its feet, with a hint of chalky tannin on the back end. (TP)

Drink: 2020 – 2025
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
Red

So fresh and aromatic on the nose, really lovely. Violets and blueberries. Juicy strawberry on the palate and seamless tannins. Approachable and moreish, with a hit of violets on the end. (TP)

Drink: 2020 – 2027
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
Red

Like a bouquet of flowers, very high-toned. Bursting with strawberry on the palate. Soft, soft tannins allow the fruit to shine. Moreish. (TP)

Drink: 2020 – 2027
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
Red

Bright, pure strawberries. More structure built into this wine, needs a little bottle age. Long and lithe but a little unyielding at the moment. (TP)

Drink: 2022 – 2028
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies
Red

Wax seal where the others are standard capsules.
Mineral, but still showing layers of subtle blueberry and ripe red cherry. Glossy entry, but the tannin quickly builds. Chalky, but intense in red fruits that match the structure. Despite the sweet intensity the wine remains ethereal and bright. Should be superb in a couple of years. (TP)

Drink: 2022 – 2032
Imported into the UK by Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies

Château de Marsannay (Marsannay)

Red

Cask sample. Unusually deep crimson. Sweet and rich. Fine for a dramatic wine for early drinking but it wouldn’t be top of the list for refinement. It’s not expensive but it’s just a little sweet and bumptious. (JR)

Drink: 2023 – 2028
Price: £125 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
Red

Cask sample. Unusually deep crimson. Sweet and rich. Fine for a dramatic wine for early drinking but it wouldn’t be top of the list for refinement. It’s not expensive but it’s just a little sweet and bumptious. (JR)

Drink: 2023 – 2028
Price: £125 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
Red

Cask sample. Naughty heavy bottles from this producer. A bit mean and severe on the end. And it lacks real focus and fruit density on the mid palate. (JR)

Drink: 2025 – 2033
Price: £330 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
Red

Cask sample. Bit of lift on the nose here. But still very sweet fruit on the palate. Just a bit chunky and unintegrated at the moment. A sour note on the finish. (JR)

Drink: 2026 – 2035
Price: £205 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks
Red

Cask sample. Jewelly fruit on the nose and pretty aggressive tannins on the palate. Drying finish but it may get there in the end. (JR)

Drink: 2028 – 2038
Price: £385 per case of 6 ib Justerini & Brooks

Sarah Anne Marsh...

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