A celebration of Sauvignon Blanc

Jonathan Pabiot of Sancerre

Okay, I'm convinced … New-wave Pouilly-Fumé producer Jonathan Pabiot pictured above by Juan Trujillo Andrades for Lay & Wheeler.

The very first case of wine I ever bought was a Gitton Sancerre, Monts Damnés 1973. My older daughter who rarely mentions wine tells me she is very fond of Sancerre. I think for many people the name Sancerre has a certain magic. I remember that when Nick and I instituted an all-American wine list when he reopened L’Escargot restaurant in London’s Soho in 1981, the first non-American wine we felt we had to add to the second edition pf the...