Chevillon Vaucrains triumphs

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Robert Chevillon is one of the most reliable names in Burgundy. The Chevillon table at any tasting is always surrounded by enthusiastic tasters because it's a domaine that delivers both accessible fruit in youth and ageing ability. The wine Robert's sons Bertrand and Denis always pour last, even after their Les St-Georges from a vineyard many regard as of grand cru status, is their premier cru Vaucrains. Vaucrains is just up the slope from Les St-Georges and the Chevillons' vines are some of the lowest in Vaucrains – promising stuff indeed.

So when a couple of friends realised that their...