Clos Rougeard's new team

New team at Clos Rougeard

Now that it’s a rich man’s plaything, has this iconic estate lost its oomph? Above, manager Jacques-Antoine Toublanc (left) and vineyard manager Richard Desouche.

Clos Rougeard in the Saumur region of the Loire Valley acquired legendary status some years ago. Established in the 17th century, the domaine passed through the hands of eight generations of the same family, the last, brothers Charly and Nady Foucault, finessing everything that had gone before and fully reinforcing the reputation. But with the death of Charly in 2015 and the complications of succession, the property was sold in 2017 to the wealthy Bouyges family...