Glorious Sangiovese

Castello di Brolio

Tuscany's signature red wine grape is enjoying its revamp. Above, the largest estate in Chianti Classico, that of the Barone Ricasoli centred on the Castello di Brolio. See also Noble Chianti Classico.

No one could be happier than me that Sangiovese is now so respected. Throughout much of the late 20th century it was rather scorned, even in its Tuscan homeland, because the over-productive clones then common resulted in some uninspiring wines that seemed so much less dazzling then than deep-coloured Cabernet, Merlot and Syrah.

In 2008 producers in Montalcino voted to give up their flirtation with added Cabernet...