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  • Jancis Robinson
Written by
  • Jancis Robinson
24 Nov 2004

There may be people to whom a tasting of 15 different Montrachets is nothing special, but I have yet to meet them. Even Dominique Lafon, producer of one of the finest and arguably Burgundy's brightest boy (though it's the boyish grin rather than his birth certificate that qualifies him for that epithet), had only once before taken part in…